What is Lighter than Red, Brighter than White and is Un-Oaked?

Why, Rosé of course! Dry Rosé offers a whole new dimension to wine, neither red nor white, with endless variation depending on varietals and styles. They are especially enjoyable in the summer, and, at any season, with light meals like Sunday brunch. Forget about those sweet cotton-candy blush wines that started so many of us on the way to enjoying wine, but then planted the seeds of color prejudice. There are still some of those around, but there are many dry Rosés, ranging from pale, delicate, light wines that trip across the palate and make that Sunday brunch with smoked white fish, or salmon memorable, to bold versions that are miraculous with the likes of barbequed steak or lamb on a hot summer day. But I’m not finished - how about sparkling Rosé that covers all the bases, including your Thanksgiving turkey dinner?
One blessing of Rosé - the almost complete absence of what has been called MSG for wine, namely oak. Also, because, with few exceptions, most Rosé wine labels are silent regarding the grapes used to make the wine, I must disclaim the accuracy of any mention of grape varietals - my sources are known to be unreliable.
This year, for the first time, the Bordelaise have hopped on the Rosé bandwagon - among them Chateau Pichon Lalande - my favorite Paulliac producer, and Chateau Pavie, a Grand Gru St Emillion. This is as much a sign that Rosé is now legitimate as it is a sign of the tough times in the French wine business - too much wine and a weak dollar. Both the Pichon Lalande “Rosé des Tourelles” ‘04, $14.99/13.49, and the Chateau Pavie “La Rosee de Pavie” ‘04, $15.99/14.39, are Estate Bottled, beautifully focused wines that will enhance any light food. Do not make them super cold - my preference - about 65 degrees F.
Another new-comer, this from Tuscany, is Rignana ‘03 Rosato, which I am told is 100% Canaiolo. Until about four years ago, when the traditional Chianti rules were relaxed, Canaiolo was an incognito stowaway in every bottle labeled “Chianti”. This is the first straight Canaiolo wine I have ever tasted - and is it ever different - unlike anything I have ever experienced. The color is unique - dark bronze. It has tannin - enough to accompany beef off the barbeque, and the flavor is extraordinary, both the fruit and the tang are subtlety but distinctly cranberry. This eye-popping experience will cost you about $13.99/12.59 - and you’ll be back for more.
I have always had a preference for sparkling wines, Champagne included, that are made of red-skinned grapes, most notably Pinot Noir. The Blanc de Noir versions are made with no skin contact so that the wine is white. Depending upon the length of skin contact with the fermenting juice, Rosé sparkling wines range in color from the palest salmon to nearly deep red. I love them. They usually have more character than the Blanc de Blancs, which brings me to another personal peeve.
In my humble personal opinion, too many sparkling wines, Champagne included, are made using wine of mediocre, if not inferior quality, disguised by the “bubbles” and the cold temperature at which they invariably consumed. Try this! Leave your sparkling wine in the glass until it is flat and at room temperature. Would you then drink it?

I unintentionally did this with a stunning Rosé Cava (Spanish sparkling wine) from Mont Ferrant that we offered at a recent Saturday Tasting. Five days later, before tossing out the half-empty, stoppered bottle that had been left on the tasting table, I tasted it. It was delicious! Virtually everyone who tasted that flat, room temperature Rosé, bought a bottle or more. Mont Ferrant Rosé Cava has a lovely pink color; has a sensuous bouquet, lovely delicate fruit, no detectable residual sugar and a long, bright crisp finish. Who can ask for more for $14.99/13.49? What grapes? I’m not sure. Keep it in mind for Thanksgiving.
You can find dry Rosés, made of many grape varietals, from almost any wine producing area of the world. If you are a Cabernet Sauvignon fan, I can recommend Snoqualmie ‘03 “Cirque de Rose” from Washington State. It is relatively dark in color, with exuberant Cabinet fruit that may lead you to think it is sweet, but your taste buds are playing tricks - it is bone dry - and it makes me wonder why so many regular Cabs are obliterated with oak.. “Cirque de Rosé” slightly chilled will go with anything you want to barbeque, for only $8.99/8.09.
From the Penedes region of Spain, the peculiarly named “1 + 1 = 3" winery offers a delicious ‘03 Cabernet Rosé that is not quite as fruity. It sells for about $16.99/15.29. I am told that the winery name is an idiomatic Catalan expression having to do with sex!
The inhospitable region of Priorat in north-eastern Spain, while it taxes human fortitude, brings forth the ultimate expression of those varietals that can survive its harsh soil and climate. A young woman, Sylvia Puig, is the artisan who produced the minuscule vintage of Odysseus ‘04 Rosado, an incredibly complex wine made entirely of Grenache - worth every penny of its $20.99/18.89 price.
Syrah makes great Rosé - Vina Robles ‘04 “Roseum”, from Paso Robles, California, $17.99/16,19, and , for $14.99/13.49, Mourgues du Gres ‘03 “Les Galets”, from Nimes in the south of France, show two of the many faces of my favorite varietal. The Californian offers more fruit; the French has less fruit and more spice - both will go well with your barbequed beef or lamb.
All said and done, southern French Rosés remain the most sought after, perhaps because of the wide selection and great variety. Many of them are made from unspecified varietals, and guessing what they might be can be fun. A classic Provencal Rosé is Bargemone ‘03, and my guess, both from the orange/bronze color and the zesty finish, is that it has more than a smidgin of Mourvedre. For $13.99/12.59 you can be transported to a Provencal country restaurant on a warm summer day.
I suspect that Lancyre ‘03 Rose, $12.99/11.69, from Languedoc’s Pic St. Loup is largely Syrah and Grenache, while the $9.99/8.99, Massamier La Mignarde ‘04, appears to have no Syrah, but may have some Cinsault. Both are delightful.
Villerambert ‘04 from Minervois, one of the leading appellations in Languedoc, is richly flavored - I suspect Syrah, Grenache and perhaps either Cinsault or Carignan - continues, at $10.99/9.89, to be a best-seller.
Provenza ‘03 Chiaretto, from Italy’s Lombardy, is surprisingly the most subtle of all my current Rosés. I say surprisingly because of the cepage - Sangiovese, Barbera, Marzema, and Groppello. This delicate, but complex wine can be had for $12.99/11.69.
Pinot Noir makes wonderful Rosé, particularly from Sancerre in the Loire, but there is no still Rosé currently available. Instead, try Jean Laurent Brut Rosé Champagne, with or without food - you will be surprised, delighted and satisfied that you got your $39.99/35.99's worth.
Rick Lewis
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