MY YEAR-END BLAST!

The eWineBulletin has been silent for several months due to an abundance of other squeaky wheels. With this issue I am making amends—letting loose with accumulated wine, and a few non-wine, issues that have been pressing to be let out.

C O N T E N T S :
Wine and/or Sublime Spirits; The Perfect Gift
The State of the Wine Business
The Fun I’m having
Obscene Restaurant Wine Prices and a Great Alternative
The Best Coffee Anywhere
More Wine Scuttlebutt

Wine and/or Sublime Spirits; The Perfect Gift

For the person who enjoys wine, what better gift? The possibilities are endless; the decisions you need to make are easy and, most important of all, you are assured that your gift is will be appreciated and enjoyed.
To make it easy to select appropriate wines, I suggest that you make a note of what you know, if anything, regarding the wine preference of each person on your list, and, if you know nothing, that should be no deterrent, because we will take the time to help you make an appropriate choice—but try not to wait 'til Christmas Eve!. Also, have an idea as to what you are comfortable spending—we will never push you to spend more.
Price is neither a good indicator of quality, nor of what an individual might enjoy—you can get wines in the $10 price range, give or take a few dollars, that will satisfy even those with “discriminating” palates. The “sweet spot” is in the $10 to $20 price range. Unless you are sure of the recipients preferences, I would suggest that you hedge your bets—three $15 bottles are a better bet than one $45 bottle, and three $30 bottles, or even six $15, are a better choice than one $90 bottle.
Unless you object, we put our label on every bottle we know is intended as a gift. We want the wine to be appreciated, and we want the recipient to know where the wine came from. It also gives the recipient the option of exchanging the wine for something he or she may prefer.
The Rick’s Pick label is your “Good Wine Seal of Approval”, and the recipient may well recognize that.
We do not offer commercial gift packages—you can do much better with a personalized selection from our extensive inventory of Rick’s Picks, and we offer a selection of attractive packaging and wrapping. We do not do baskets—they take up too much “real estate”.
If you suspect, or know, that a person is a “connoisseur”, or has a “huge” wine cellar, do not be deterred. Unless you feel comfortable doing so, I suggest that you not attempt to match or out-do what he or she already has in his cellar—we will help you pick something, perhaps off-the-beaten-track, that costs what you are comfortable spending and that will be appreciated .
We are all the targets of advertising aimed at building brands, and if you suspect that your recipient is “label conscious”, either out of habit or perception of value, you may want to weigh the choices of a recognizable brand against a well-chosen unknown label that might turn out to be an unforgettable revelation. We will help you.
Keep in mind that personal preferences are drifting away from white wines toward red, especially in the cooler seasons, and my observation is that more and more wine drinkers are rejecting those big, oaky, buttery Chardonnays.
As for aficionados of spirits—Scotch, Bourbon, Cognac, Rum and Vodka—if you know the recipients preferences, your choice is safe and easy, but we offer a selection of “sublime spirits”—sure-to-be-appreciated, obscure brands that stand above and beyond the nationally advertised competition, often costing no more and sometimes less.
Last, we have for sale, copies of a few of the wine reference books that we use every day—The Oxford Companion to Wine, $65; The World Atlas of Wine by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson, $50; and an irreverent little book that tells much of what you need to know about wine—The Wine Avenger, by Willie Gluckstein, $12.

The State of the Wine Business

Such is the state of the wine business that we do not have free trade within a state nor between states, but we have unfettered trade with China—it is nearly impossible to buy any manufactured item not Made In China.
The state of the wine business is that in just seconds I can “Google” information on virtually any topic, and virtually any wine producer, but in order to find, for example, all the California Cabernets available to me I must literally page through some 300 pages of the Connecticut Beverage Journal. The “Bev Journal” is the bible of the alcoholic beverage business in almost every state. It has not changed one iota in the 21 years I have been using it. It lists what I can buy, at what price (whether I buy 1 case or 100 cases), and the lowest price I can sell it for. If its not in the Journal, I, and you, are out of luck. If it is available in another state or another country, we are still out of luck. It's a cozy relationship between, the state and the big distributors licensed to do business in the state, and, I am sorry to say, by some of my competitors. Hate mail is on the way!
The wine industry has its roots stuck deep in the “likker” business—a dinosaur. Worse yet, the wine industry is being dominated by international conglomerates, who are interested in building brands. They have gobbled up many of the small producers who pioneered the making of fine wine in this country and in Australia. In that country about 90% of all wine is produced by four huge conglomerates—the remaining 10% comes from hundreds, if not thousands, of small producers with little marketing clout.
Until about forty years ago the wine consumer was essentially on his own in sifting through the available wines—typically by trial and error. Information was limited and suspect, until a wine media emerged, largely in the form of the Wine Spectator and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.
Initially they shed a much-needed bright light. But power corrupts. Does any rational wine consumer believe that 11,000 wines can be condensed into a list of the Year’s One Hundred Best, ranked, no less, with no if or buts, from 1 to 100.
Robert Parker has become, almost world-wide, the most powerful individual in the wine industry. To his credit he has shaken up the traditional and largely European wine industry. He accepts no advertising and presumably he accepts no favors, but he has been allowed to set himself up as the ultimate arbiter of good taste. His ability to make or break a wine producer has made him both feared and hated. He has spawned, but has no interest in, at least one consulting business devoted to counseling wine makers on how manipulate their winemaking to produce wines that Parker will rate at least 90.
You only need to read the wine ads, or the shelf talkers, to appreciate that by and large the wine industry has allowed themselves to be prostituted by WS and RP. They have become mere conduits who have abdicated their responsibility to their customers. I am sure that majority of you reading this drink and appreciate wine, not numbers.
To be sure, I’m in the business to make a living, but I would not be here if I were not having fun, as I surely am. My fun comes from finding wines from obscure, and invariably small, producers and from small and sometimes individual, importers and distributors, and to be fair there a few of large distributors who have, over the years, supported me. Without them there would be no Rick's Picks.

The Fun I’m having

Just yesterday, Iñaki, a Basque professional jai-alai player turned wine importer, and lately winemaker in Chile, came proudly into the store with a bottle of wine whose label says “Iñaki”. In the label’s background is an image of the wicker basket, called a “cesta”, that is used by the players to catch and return the goatskin-covered wound -rubber ball called a “pelota” that travels as fast as 188 miles per hour. The label tells you that the wine is Chilean, but it does not tell you that it is 47% Petit Verdot, a minor blending grape in Bordeaux, 37% Cabernet Franc and 16% Syrah.
It did not take more than a few seconds for me to realize that this was a Rick’s Pick—lovely French oak on the nose, and a gorgeous symphony of oak, fruit and tannin played in my mouth. Seamless, elegant pleasure from beginning to end. The blend, and the flavors are unique. Only once before have I had a wine with significant proportions of Petit Verdot—it was a fondly remembered Benzinger Imagery Series, 100% Petit Verdot with intense black currant fruit—no longer available—not enough consumer interest? Anyway, today Iñaki, the wine, is flying out the door at $19.99/18.99.
High drama—our stunning Mont Ferrant Rosè Cava, out of stock since August, and re-ordered in June did not make it from Spain in time for Thanksgiving, in spite of my persistent prodding of the importer. With a global wine glut this could only happen in the wine industry. The wine would never have gotten here, if not for my determination to get to the bottom of the matter. The importer, I discovered, ordered the wine but had failed to arrange for its transportation from the winery. My reward is in the joy of those who have been waiting for it, and in the smiles of pleasure from everyone who tastes it—color prejudiced Rosè-phobes included. Get yours—$16.99/15.69. Glorious bouquet, bone dry with bright acidity and the most exquisite straw-berry/raspberry fruit. Enjoy with or without food and even when its flat and warm—my ultimate test of any sparkling wine. What makes it so appealing? In part, the grape from which it is made—Monastrell a.k.a. Mourvedre.
I picked Concannon’s ‘03 Syrah as my best California Syrah value at $11.99/10.79, and as good as any Californian Syrah I have tasted recently, although I admit to not having tasted a number of pricey offerings. I bought every case I could get and it is selling like hot cakes. We have already consumed the better part of a case here at home. One of the few reviewers I have relied on for many years, Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wine, in their December Issue panned the wine. I conclude that in the matter of Syrah and also, I suspect in the case of Pinot Noir, our standards differ widely. That is part of the fun I’m having.
The Concannon ‘03 will be gone by Christmas. Look for the ‘04 next spring—if it rates a Rick’s Pick. Meanwhile, here are some other Syrahs to tide you over.
Dig deep for Poggio Al Sole ‘03 Syrah, $39.99/35.99. By far the best Italian Syrah I have tasted, which might not count for much because there are not many. But this is world-class. It comes from a top Tuscan winemaker—elegant, beautifully balanced with a personality all of its own, but still, without doubt, Syrah!
That northern Rhone knock-off, Porcupine Ridge ‘03 Syrah $11.99/10.79, from South Africa is remarkable. Remember to finish the bottle the day you open it—by next day those great flavors will have faded.
Last but not least, Ch de Lancyre ‘01 Vieilles Vignes, “Pic Saint-Loup”, Coteaux du Languedoc, $19.99/17.99 is sensational, and the regular Ch de Lancyre ‘01 “Pic Saint-Loup”, $13.99/12.59 is a steal.

Obscene Restaurant Wine Prices and a Great Alternative

I sense a conspiracy. Not long ago restaurants were cautiously pushing against the $30 entré ceiling. All of sudden this year it seems that every moderate to up-scale restaurant has only token offers of under-$30 wines and the choices are often abysmal—I won’t drink most of them. Who buys those $60 wines to say nothing of the three and four hundred “bargains”? A not-to-be-named New Haven restaurant offers a wine for $45—it cost him $11 and sells at retail for about $18.
A solution—the Madison Bistro. Just steps from our back door offers terrific, prepared-to-order Mediterranean dishes, in a cozy intimate setting—out-doors in fine weather. Bring your own wine—no corkage. Have dinner for two for about $40—not including your wine. I have enjoyed the best spaghetti carbonara since we lived in Italy, and a superb Provencal-style steak.
For twenty years we closed the store at 8pm and walking out to a desolate, deserted downtown—we now hear voices and music and we see people—the Madison Bistro is best thing that has happened to Madison in 20 years.

The Best Coffee Anywhere

Just a few steps for our front door, at Willoughby’s, you will find what they call “Serious Coffee” either in a cup or in the form of freshly roasted beans, and what I call The Best Coffee Anywhere. About 18 years ago I became a fan of Sumatra Mendehling French Roast, and it has been our house coffee ever since. I keep the whole beans in the freezer, grind them fresh as needed, and I use a French Press coffee pot. They have a huge selection of beans, but this is my favorite. They put the “evil empire” to shame. So within a stone’s throw in downtown Madison you can get great food, great wine and great coffee.
You can also buy Willoughby’s Coffee on line at http://www.willoughbyscoffee.com. Receive a 10% Discount on your web order. During checkout enter coupon code RICKS-01205 and press ”redeem coupon”. Valid through 2-28-05.

More Wine Scuttlebutt

For some time now the Californian wine buzz-word has been “hangtime”. Google offered me hundreds of references to “hangtime” in basket ball; a reference to a Californian winery named Hang Time, and this single definition “Hangtime philosophy is to ensure that the flavors of the grapes reveal themselves boldly in the wine. That can only occur through a long "hangtime" in the vineyards, which concentrates the flavors in the grapes, and thoughtful winemaking, in which the flavors of the grapes are given priority.” The “flavors of the grapes” are usually referred to as fruit.
I declined to shell out $295 for a copy of Wine Opinions’ “groundbreaking report focusing on the attitudes and taste preferences of U.S. core wine consumers relating to wine styles resulting from extended hangtime.”
For several years I have heard California winemakers extolling the virtues of hangtime, but I never gave it much thought until I read a recent Economist article on the subject—yes there’s money involved. Typically, the Economist article is long and exhaustive, but I will try to paraphrase it, adding some of my own comments, hopefully without losing your interest.
The ripening of grapes on the vine involves the conversion of acid into sugar. In northern climates, with short growing seasons, there are vintages in which lack of sunshine results in low sugar levels in the grape and low alcohol levels in the finished wine, which may be acidic and lacking in fruit. Low alcohol, but not lack of fruit, can be rectified, by adding sugar to the fermenting grape juice. Chaptalization, as it is called, is outlawed in many European appellations; The German system of grading wine—Kabinet, Spaetlese, Auslese, Berenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese—is based the sugar level at harvest, not on the sugar level in the finished wine. Their alcohol levels are often in the 9 to 10% range with some residual sugar in the finished wine. The Kabinets are light and easy drinking.
Most wines are in the 11 to 13% range of alcohol level. Back in the seventies it was popular to produce Zinfandels with 16% alcohol, a feat that requires some winemaking wizardry, because, depending on temperature, most strains of yeast quit working at alcohol levels around. 15%—known in the trade as a “stuck” fermentation.
Longer hangtime results in higher sugars levels, in part because more acid is converted into sugar, and in part, because, in the absence of rain, the grapes will loose water. Perhaps the flavor and fruit levels are increased, but it has always been my understanding that fruit comes from thicker skins and adequate maceration—intimate contact of fermenting juice and skins—during fermentation.
But the Economist's article implies that money, perhaps more than claimed wine quality enhancement, is involved. Californian wine regulations limit the “watering back” of wine (note they don’t say “watering down”) to certain circumstances, one of them being stuck fermentation, caused, as noted above, by high alcohol levels. Water, by reducing the alcohol level will unstick the fermentation—and will be sold as wine!
One might be tempted to say “so what, there is a glut of wine”, but we are talking about
wine that acquires much of its perceived value from a particular place, the name of which is on the label.
Not really addressed by the Economist is that in recent years, alcohol levels of Californian wines have been climbing, often hitting 16%, no doubt adding appeal to those consumers who seek what they call “full-bodied” wines. Alcohol is tasteless—tannin is often mistaken for alcohol—but higher levels of alcohol give the wine a heavier “mouthfeel”, and of course you feel the effects of the higher alcohol level. The higher alcohol levels tend to make the wines—especially Chardonnay—heavy and clumsy as opposed to light and elegant.
The article concludes by condemning the standardization of taste and the loss of individualism. “As giant corporations buy up one winemaker after another ... what happens if one Cabernet tastes much the same as another, what happens if giant winemankers, imposing standardized methods of production, put consistency ahead of taste”. But the Economist misses the point with “if”—these consequences have already come to pass.
The article concludes, “And yet never has the world been under such threat from the forces of homogenization. That, one would have thought was a much greater threat than watering back”
Also not addressed by the Economist, but of concern to me, is that higher sugar levels imply lower acid levels—when it comes to wine I am known to be an acid freak—wine without adequate acid is grape juice, and it fades fast!

Happy Holidays,

Rick Lewis

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