Long-time customers may recall a fabulous Spanish wine tasting dinner, hosted by the Madison Wine Shop some ten years ago at Mason Galicia in Norwalk . That restaurant, now named Meigas, but still the same decor, the same impeccable service and authentic Spanish food, with the same hands-on owner Ignacia Blanco, was recently the venue for the 2004 Annual Wine Dinner sponsored by the Spanish Government to promote Spanish wine and food.- not that Spanish wine needs much promoting at the Madison Wine Shop.
I must admit to some qualms about relating this experience, my concern being that some of you might conclude that since I derive so much pleasure from my passion, I should be happy to give my wine away, if not pay you for patronizing the Madison Wine Shop. With faith in your benevolence, I’ll take that risk. Meigas, and its sister restaurant Ibiza, in
Spanish cuisine, with its emphasis on tapas and multiple courses of small portions, is the ideal vehicle for sampling a variety of wines, and wine and food pairings. I feel that all to often too much emphasis is placed on selecting the right wine for any particular dish or sometimes even on a specific recipe for the dish, as though some authority can determine, or has determined the ideal wine for every dish. In truth, I simply try to avoid choosing the wrong wine, and that means that the wine should not obliterate the taste of the food, nor should the food overwhelm the wine. Self-education by trial and error is the best teacher. For my part, I am not looking for a long term relationship - but a one-night stand, with the possibility that I might find a food and wine combination that moves me as no other has, will suffice. I rarely imbibe wine without food.
The six-course dinner was preceded by an aperitif featuring 1+1=3, 2001 Cava from Penedes, one of the richest Cavas I have tasted., and four scrumptious tapas offerings, of which my favorites were marinated fresh anchovies on grilled melon with salmon roe and black olive tapenade, and an “other world” crispy ravioli of duck confit. I know you are curious about that 1+1=3 winery name - I am told that it is a Catalan idiom, one interpretation of which has a sexual connotation.
The dinner itself, went from one devine morsel to another starting with barely cooked sea-scallop in bed of potato foam, followed by salt baked stripped sea bass from Spain, with root vegetables, tomato, pinenuts, and smoked pimento. The latter was my dish of the evening. The 1+1=3 Xarello, served with the sea bass was, in my opinion, no match for the first wine, Jose Pariente 2002 Verdejo from Rueda, so I continued drinking it with the sea bass. This Verdejo has a glorious bouquet with just hint of Sauvignon Blanc, but in the mouth it offers stunning, subtle but distinct Verdejo fruit, bracing acidity and a finish which strikes a sublime parting note. We sell it for $17.99.
Roasted rabbit loin wrapped in bacon with grilled shrimps led off the three meat dishes. Next, was bomba rice, braised oxtail, porcini mushrooms and chick peas, in what I would have described as a fricassee; and the last was braised short ribs, cabbage stuffed with potatoes and Serrano ham with a sauce of red wine ginger and garlic confit. As a fan of oxtail, it was a foregone conclusion that that dish would be my favorite - the texture of al dente rice and peas coupled with the heavenly flavors of oxtail and mushrooms was sensational.
All three red wines, served with the meat dishes, were what we have come to expect from Spanish wines - accessiblity; balanced fruit, tannin and acidity; complexity and affordablility. I found them flawless, and of such quality that I would have happily enjoyed any of the wines with any of the three dishes.
Luna Beberide, a Cabernet, ? Mencia blend from Biezo, was, appropriately, the lighter of the three; Astrales, Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero and Barbara Fores from Terra Alta . The Barbara Fores, a notch above the others, and, in my opinion, a match for almost any wine from anywhere is available at the Madiosn Wine Shop for only?????.
I usually shun dessert, but not this time! An other-worldly concoction of something called Nevot cream cheese, sorbet, and a pastry akin to baba-au-rum, sitting between them, was irresistible. However, the two dessert wines served with dessert were the crowning finale. A Monastrell (aka Mouvredre), by Sivano Garcia from Jumilla and, hear this, a Moscatel de Turis from Valencia, in an art decco style 750 ml screw-cap bottle, that sits on our shelf with an $8.99 price tag. The Moscatel is remarkable, all the more so because of its price, but the Monastrell was indescribably delicious - I sipped it to the very last drop. Rich, almost impenetrable black fruit, balanced by a huge tannic back-bone and sharp acidity - a mere $24.99 for a 500ml bottle. My belief that dessert wines are dessert and rarely need anything more than cheese or fruit, was, to say the least, slightly shaken
Look for more about Spanish wines next time.
Rick Lewis
Visit madisonwineshop.com | Questions or comments? Email info@madisonwineshop.com
