Rick's Pick Values

It’s Not about Price - A Rick’s Pick reflects my Evaluation of Pleasure and Value. A Rick’s Pick is not based on Label, Vintage, Someone’s Numeric Rating or Sales Pitch. Only if my taste finds Pleasure and the price reflects Value will I consider buying.

Here is a current sampling:

Isolda ’07 Tinto. Navarra, Spain $6.99/6.19 is all Tempranillo - not the most complex wine you will have tasted, but quite delightful with great fruit and balance. I would drink it at the drop of a hat even if it were $10 a bottle.
JP Azeitâo ’07 Tinto, Terras do Sado, Portugal, $8.99/8.07, Castellâo, 60%, Aragonez 20%, Syrah 20%. This one is complex, not “loud”, exquisitely light - a whole palette of flavors play beautiful music. Here is Value!
Les Berthets ’05 Premières Le Côtes de Blaye, $9.99/8.99 - and it is Estate Bottled. Who said good Bordeaux is expensive? It is going fast, so get yours.
Ruberte Tresor ’07, Campo de Borja, Spain. $9.99/8.99. Old Vine Grenache. Explosive! The bright, beautiful fruit in this wine, balanced with lovely acid and a touch of tannin, is a revelation. Even at half the price of this gem, Nouveau Beaujolais, would not come close (that is why I embargoed Nouveau years ago, but definitely not regular Beaujolais, Beaujolais Village nor Cru Beaujolais - see the next Value)
Trenel Fils ’03 Morgon, Cru du Beaujolais, $24.99/22.49. Let me tell you about Trenel Morgon! First, it has been imported for ages by a feisty gentleman by the name of Robert Chatterdon, who cares not about any opinion but his own - good luck to him - he can apparently afford to. In my own cellar I have the remnants of a case of Trenel ’83 Morgon - yes ’83 - it is 25 years old and has aged beautifully. Pale, delicate, fragile, but exquisite. For as long as it lasts, a treat which we indulge in when we need solace. I can assure you that the ’03, a substantial wine from a hot vintage, will give you solace for years to come - expect elegance - no “loud elevator music” here.
Lungarotti ’04 Rubesco, Rosso di Torgiano, $14.99/13.49, Sangiovese 70%, Canaiolo, 30%. When we think of Umbrian wine, we think Lungarotti, and specifically, legendary Giorgio Lungarotti, the founder of the vineyard and winery in the 1960's. His daughters carry on the tradition. The Rubesco, Rosso di Torgiano is exceptional wine – classic Sangiovese with a Canaiolo kick in the finish. However, I urge you to splurge for a special treat - Lungarotti ’90 Rubesco Riserva, $49.99/44.99 or Lungarotti ’90 San Giorgio, $75.00/67.50. The latter, a blend of 40% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and 50% Cabernet, used to be nick-named a “Super Umbrian”, is now officially labeled an IGT - Indicazione Geografica Tipica, or “Wine Typical of the Geographical Region” All three represent some of the greatest Values in Italian wine.

Another wonderful value in Italian wine, from the acclaimed Chianti producer Fatorria La Ripa, San Giorgio Alle Rose ’03, IGT Colle della Toscana Centrale, $14.99/13.49/12.74. This wine is made of Sangiovese and Canaiolo and I suspect that the Sangiovese is less than 85%, which would explain the IGT. The “Alle Rose” means “of the Rose” - it is not a Rosé, and the Lungarotti San Grigorio and this San Grigorio are unrelated. What is important is that this is another superb value - the $12.74 price is the bottle price if you buy a solid case. You will enjoy each bottle for several days after you open it, if you so choose, and the wine has staying power for several years, in case you resist drinking it all up in short order.
Domaine Hubert Chavy, ’07 Bourgogne Blanc, “Les Femelottes”, Estate Bottled and harvested by hand, $24.99/22.49. Chardonnay, but what Chardonnay - exquisitely delicate, with an unusual finish, You will reach again for the bottle.
Le Haut Chesneau ’02, Touraine, Tradition, $13.99/12.59. Cabernet Franc, Estate Bottled by Jean-Marc Villaine. Bottle age has softened the tannin, allowing the exceptionally complex Cab Franc fruit to come to the fore. You will enjoy this Loire wine with any rich food - pasta or meat. Beware; the bouquet is a little barnyardy.
Another exciting Grenache - Monte Oton 100% Garancha, Campo de Borja, Moncayo $9.99/8.99. Moncayo is an extinct volcano in the mountains in east central Spain, and the volcanic soil shows up in the underlying minerally component of light, ever-so-tasty quaffing wine, typical of Campo de Borja.
Domaine de la Madone, ’06 Beaujolais Le Perron, Estate Bottled by Jean Bererd, $14.99/13.49. An eye-opener.
Having, in short order, stolen the world’s Sauvignon Blanc limelight, New Zealand is in the process of doing the same with Pinot Noir. Characteristically, offering lovely bouquet and fruit, good balance and no noticeable oak, all for a fair price. Mud House ’07 Marlborough Pinot Noir, $16.99/15.29 and Latitude 410 ’05 Pinot Noir, $19.99/17.99 are good examples that focus on value. Latitude 410 would appear to define the north of theSouth Island and specifically Marlborough.
Domaine de la Pertuisane, ’05 “Le Nain Violet”. VDP Côtes Catalanes, Grenache 50%, Syrah 40%, Carignan 10% $24.99/22.50. Côtes Catalanes, is the foothills of the Pyrenees in southern Roussillon where Grenache is king. There is a unique, exquisite note in the mid-palate of this wine - does it come from any one of the three varietals? Does “Le Nain Violet”, which translates as the “Purple Dwarf” have anything to do with it?
If I could have only one wine for the rest of my life, it would be Syrah - specifically from the Northern Rhone Valley, and if I had a choice, it would be Hermitage - in my opinion France’s most underrated appellation, and if that wish could not be fulfilled, I would choose Porcupine Ridge Syrah from Boekenhoutskloof in South Africa. The ’07 vintage is $12.99/11.69. Incredible Value. Meaty, smoky, earthy, barnyardy, cowshed, stables - infinitely satisfying. To each his own, especially when it comes to wine.
My “wine bible” is a little book by Jancis Robinson “Guide to Wine Grapes” the pocket edition of a more comprehensive book by the same name, sadly now out of print. My bible has never failed to reveal something about every one of the many obscure grape varietals that I have encountered. Some of those varietals can be found as Rick’s Picks on the Madison Wine Shop shelves. Such is Torrontes, a white varietal, apparently native to Galicia in north-west Spain. I encountered it years ago as an Argentinean wine which I dubbed a “cameo Gewurztraminer” because of its bright acidity and hints of the spicy floral characteristics of Alsatian Gewurztraminer, but few shared my excitement and it disappeared from our market. I learn from Jancis Robinson that there are several white grape varietals, known as Torrontes, widely planted in Argentina. No definite relationship has been established between the Argentinean and Spanish Torrontes.
Within the last few months several Argentinean Torrontes bottlings have returned to the Madison Wine Shop, the most exciting of which is Inca ’07, $11.99/10.79. Torrontes 80%, Chardonnay 20%, squeaky clean, devoid of oak and malolactic fermentation, light, slightly spicy, with a hint of unadulterated Chardonnay.
An odyssey that spans nearly 15 years! Petit Verdot, was a Cinderella, imprisoned in Bordeaux by a relatively short growing season. The risk that it will not ripen has limited its planting to less than 5% of the Bordeaux vineyard area, and made it a minor component of most Bordeaux wines. Why you may ask do they even bother? I suspect that the answer is that a little Petit Verdot goes a long way towards spicing up typical (if there is such a thing) Bordeaux. Petit Verdot may be at the bottom of Bordeaux totem pole, after Cabernet, Merlot, Cab Franc and Malbec, but I suspect that it may be the tail that wags the dog. I find that it has a great bouquet and more tantalizing fruit and structure than either Cabernet or Merlot - even the color is a gorgeous striking plum red.
Benziger’s 1992 single-varietal Imagery Series, was my first encounter with Petit Verdot. I was smitten, but the wine disappeared from the market. By a creepy coincidence, during the course of writing this, I reached into a bin in my cellar for a bottle of wine for dinner, and what came out was probably the last bottle of that Benziger ’92 Petit Verdot! It was all I remembered, and more.
Three years ago, Inaki Castro, a Basque Jai-lai professional who retired 23 years ago and started a Spanish wine import business, brought me his first winemaking effort in Chile - Inaki a stunning wine, made of 49% Petit Verdot, which largely accounts for its utterly remarkable character. It re-lit my Petit Verdot torch. The latest vintage, Inaki ‘06 is a bargain at $19.99/17.99.
Two years ago I persuaded Inaki to make me a 100% Petit Verdot. The first vintage, Korta ‘05 Reserva, hit our shelves in November 2007 - an instant success which sold out 3 months before the new vintage was due. The Korta ’06, Barrel Select, Reserva, Petite Verdot $12.99/11.69 is getting raves. You absolutely must taste this.
Suddenly, it now seems that Petit Verdot has been “discovered” - a Spanish bombshell, Casa de la Ermita’s ’03 100% Petit Verdot $29.99/26.99,- is a watershed with its gorgeous plum color, seductive bouquet and tangy black fruit. Undoubtably my Wine Value of the Year.

Piedmont has a native grape, Arneis, that is another Cinderella. Despite glorious pear fruit and aroma, it lacks acidity, and wine without acidity is mere fruit juice that oxidizes rapidly. Cerreto, a Barolo producer came to the rescue about 20 years ago, by fermenting it under pressure in a closed fermenter, trapping the carbon dioxide in the wine. It is similar to a sparkling wine but under much lower pressure. Cerreto Blange ’07, $24.99/22.49, not only has the most beautiful label in the store - Italian flair - but is quite exquisite with a lovely mouth-feel and richness that goes with many foods
Cesari Pinot Noir delle Venezie ’07, $9.99/8.99, is an Italian revolution that appears to come from nowhere. Exquisite Pinot Noir bouquet and flavor with lovely balance - not a hair out of place. This bottling is young and opens up beautifully with aeration. Unbelievable Value.
The finalé - three wines from the south of France that reflect diversity and fantastic Value
Domaine de Chateaumar ’07 “CuveeBastien” Côtes du Rhone, $15.99/14.49.
Chateau de Sérame ’03 Minervois, $15.99/14.39
Dom de Familongue ’03, Coteau du Languedoc, $11.99/10.79. Estate Bottled, Grenache 59%, Syrah 11%, Carignan carbonic maceration, 9%; classic vinification 9%, Cinsault 8%,
Mouvedre 1%.

Rick Lewis

© Copyright 2008 Rick Lewis. All rights Reserved. Not responsible for typos.

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Two Great Wines, Two Big Gripes

I have neither Ranted nor Raved for some time, not because I have mellowed in my old age, but because I am perennially out of time. However, I am motivated by two Rave wines and two Gnawing public policy issues.

Rave No 1: Sorrel ’05 Hermitage: the most exciting wine I have tasted in several years.

Not surprisingly it is Syrah and it comes from Hermitage in the northern Rhone; in my opinion, the source of France’s best red wine value. My first sniff of J M B Sorrel’s 2005 Hermitage “Ler Vigneron” Lot 8 set my heart racing, my first sip left me ecstatic - Berlioz’s Symphony Fantastic playing on my palate. But it comes at a price - $89.99! In this economic climate? I hesitated for a minute or two, but then concluded “To hell with it - this is too good to pass up” A Super Rick’s Rave.

Rave No 2: My “Ultimate Turkey Wine”

With Thanksgiving just around the corner, and Christmas close behind I remind you of Montferrant Rosé Cava (Spanish sparkling wine), which, with every passing year, gains more and more fan. If you are already hooked you’ll need no reminder. It makes everyone happy -young, old, big red wine lovers (once they get over their sparkling Rosé phobia), and even lovers of fruity wine.

How does one wine do all of that? Lets start with the white meat/white wine shibboleth, which I do not accept. Delicately flavored food needs delicately flavored wine - the flavor of lobster is obliterated by an oaky, buttery Chardonnay, but complemented by a crisp, minerally Chablis, which is Chardonnay from the Chablis region of Burgundy. The day-after Thanksgiving, that cold turkey sandwich could go with either a white or a light red, but that Thanksgiving dinner with all the flavorful stuffing, gravy and tasty accompaniments, is a candidate for full-flavored red, like a big muscular Zin, which may not be the choice of many members of a family gathering.

So, bring on the Montferrant Rosé Cava! It is a relatively dark rosé, made mainly of Monastrell, the Spanish name for the French grape called Mourvedre, a tasty red that lurks in many southern French wines, and which gives Montferrant its bright black-fruit bouquet and its dark delicious fruit. In addition it has a tangy touch of tannin and the ability to stand up to that full-flavored turkey. Last, but not least. it is festive and should be served chilled.. Make your Thanksgiving and Christmas turkey memorable. $19.99/17.99 (bottle/bottle-by-the-case, mix or match). Open for tasting every day till Thanksgiving!

It occurs to me that over the past six months my Rants have been piling up, urging me to let them out. Only a few Rick’s Rants are non-wine-based - but letting them out makes me feel better.

Rant No 1: Employer-based health-care.

I understand that, like all members of Congress, those two senators, who have been haranguing us of late, have unlimited life-time health care paid by their employers - us the taxpayers. Is that socialized medicine?
If either or both recognize that health care “insurance”, of the kind we taxpayers are offered, is unlike any other kind of insurance, they are too smart to admit it. Conventional home insurance for example, is based on the fact that the statistical chance that any house will burn down does not generally increase year to year, but as individuals, it is a foregone conclusion that our healthcare needs increase as we get older. The insurance industry would prefer to insure the young who feel that they do not need it and prefer not to insure the old who do need it. They are able to increase premiums to the point where those who need it can no longer afford it. It used to be called highway robbery.

Rant No 2: Those bailouts.

If I am unable to sell that Rave No 1 wine can I get in line, behind GM for a bailout even though I knew, when I bought it, that any Rick’s Pick at $89 would be a tough sell? GM knew, in 1973, what was coming and they “downsized” the tanks that we were driving at that time. In the course of time oil prices dropped, perhaps with malice aforethought, killing the plans for alternate energy resources spawned by the1973 embargo, and it encouraged the auto industry’s highly profitable promotion of trucks gussied up as SUVs. The geniuses at GM, in mid-2008, suddenly woke up to the fact that SUVs would no longer fly and that they needed $125 billion and an undisclosed number of years to bring a replacement to market while they burn through billions in cash.

It brings to mind GM’s “Hydrogen Economy” PR red herring in 2003, which I believed then, and still do, was aimed at perpetuating the highly profitable SUV era and delaying the inevitable. It made no economic sense and even less technological sense. It led the lay public and many decision makers to believe that you could dig a hole in the ground and find hydrogen, just like we find coal, oil natural gas and uranium - that was the deceptive implication of “zero emissions”.

The supply of hydrogen is unlimited - simply separate it from water. But that requires energy. Electricity is the easiest way, and when you generate electricity in a hydrogen fuel cell you get back electricity (and the water you started with), but less electricity than you used to generate the hydrogen in the first place.

So hydrogen is a form of energy, just like electricity. Neither is a source of energy.

We have a huge infrastructure, probably reflecting an investment in the trillions, for generating and distributing electricity. For the hydrogen economy we start from scratch. What is more, we now have unused capacity for recharging electric vehicles during the night-time hours.

I am surprised that Honda has a limited number of hydrogen fueled cars on the road in California. At least they have put their money where their mouth is. All it takes to relegate GM’s hydrogen economy to the dust bin of history is a major break-through in battery technology!
I read recently that Warren Buffet has invested a few billion dollars in a Chinese company dedicated to research on battery technology and manufacturing electric cars!

Rick Lewis

© Copyright 2008 Rick Lewis. All rights Reserved.

Visit madisonwineshop.com | Questions or comments? Email info@madisonwineshop.com

Raves for Alsace and One for Fruili

In my opinion Alsatian wines rank among the most satisfying of all white wines - sadly, an opinion not widely shared, perhaps because of unfamiliarity, and more likely because they are generally lumped together with German wines, shunned because of primordial recollections of Blue Nun and Zeller Swartz Katz, sparked by the shape of the bottles and Germanic names and words on labels. Most of us started our affair with wines that were sweet and once we were weaned from them we became prejudiced. However, sweet wines, German included, that have adequate acid balance can be superb.
Alsace is in northern France on the German border - it once was German and many names are German. Atypically of old-world wines, they are labeled by the varietal - Pinot Gris (sometimes labeled Tokay although the use of that name has been officially banned), Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Gewurztraminer (German Gewurtz is as rare as hen’s teeth), Muscat and even Pinot Noir.
Generally, the wines are dry or off-dry, except for those bottlings labeled Vintage Tardive (Late Harvest), but above all they are minerally, flinty, quite acidic, should have simply stunning, rich fruit characteristic of each varietal, and they are almost never oaky. Except for inexpensive, branded wines, they are single-varietal and the better ones come from a single vineyard.

The wine-speak word, “fruit”, needs some clarification.

The input that we get from the taste buds in our mouths are limited to sweet on the very tip of the tongue (but a very crude measure of sweetness); acid (which in wine is usually malic, citric or lactic) in the middle of the mouth; bitter on the side of the mouth, and salt.
Those impressions that we get from our sense of smell are what we call fruit and they encompass not only the black and tropical fruit flavors in wine but also literally thousands of smells such as leather, tobacco, cedar, earthy, barnyard, and those that distinguish bad wine of all kinds, including those that are “corked” - the musty basement smell that comes from an improperly disinfected cork.
The next time you have a mouthful of wine try determining which of the tastes you are experiencing are coming from your nose. I think that you will conclude that all of them are in your mouth; such is the ability of the brain to deceive us. My somewhat crude and un-scientific explanation is that your brain says “it's in your mouth and that is where all those flavors are coming from”. Mouth on the other hand does not know anything about fruit flavors - the closest it can come is what it perceives on the tip of the tongue - sweetness, especially those black fruit flavors.
Why am I telling you all this? A few weeks ago one of the wines offered at my WiseUp-on-Wine Saturday tasting was Domaine Michel Fonne ’05 Pinot Gris from a single vineyard named Bennwihr. It sells for $15.99. I love Alsatian wines and this one is something special - great bouquet and an unctuous mouth feel, rich, full and glorious fruit. It has both body and flavor. What amazed me was that of perhaps 100 tasters only one agreed with me that the wine was not only not sweet, but sensational. He bought a case - everyone else dismissed it as disgustingly sweet. Out of curiosity, I took a bottle home and we demolished it with sauteed scallops. The most satisfying white wine I have had in a long time!
Domaine Michel Fonne ’05 Pinot Blanc, also from the Bennwihr vineyard, sells for $12.99. What this bottle, and many other Alsatians does for Pinot Blanc is pure magic, an experience not to be missed. I think of Pinot Blanc as a “shy” grape, demanding patience if you are to appreciate it, because its joy evolves in the very back of your palate, requiring patience, and for that reason it is often overlooked.
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Albert Boxler’s ’03 Tokay Pinot Gris Reserve is exceptional - worth every penny of its $25 cost. Other suggestions - Pierre Sparr ‘05 Riesling, $13.99 and Cuvée Emile Willm ’04 Gewurtraminer Reserve, $19.99.
Muscat is perhaps my favorite Alsatian varietal, but there is none to be had in the Connecticut, market at this time. However back in September, I tasted Laurent Barth ‘06 Muscat d’ Alsace. It will be available in February. Ask for it.
Finally, from north-east Italy’s Fruili region, Cantarutti ‘05 Pinot Grigio, $21.99, stands head and shoulders above the vast majority of its compatriots.

Rick Lewis

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The Vagaries of Vintage—Mea Culpa!

The fascination of wine lies in its infinite variety, and one of the almost infinite variables is vintage. The product of a vintage is finite and sooner or later it ends, to be replaced by the next vintage. Will it be better, will it be the “vintage of the decade”? Will it be a miserable failure? The latter happens to the best of winemakers, and when it does, what does he do? Does he sell it off in bulk to preserve his reputation (assuming he has one), and take the financial hit? Does he bottle it anyway with its regular label at its regular price and hope that consumers will not notice?
Among my golden rules, learned the hard way, to which I mostly adhere are, “measure twice, cut once” and in this business, “taste first, only then, buy”. Just a week ago, I was obliged to buy a case of a highly regarded 1999 Cote Rotie, at what appeared to be a fair price, without having tasted it — if I bought only a bottle to taste, I risked losing the wine altogether. That Cote Rotie proved to be a great disappointment, so I returned the 11 remaining bottles. Mostly, I am able to taste a wine without having to buy a bottle.
Some times we miss a vintage change in a reorder of a wine already in our inventory — but in the case of the 2001 vintage of our “ultimate shell-fish wine” Cour Cheverny, that was not the case. But I had become complacent — after 6 vintages from ’95 to ’00 that were remarkably consistent I ordered the 2001 vintage without having tasted it. Then in the heat of battle in mid-December we ran out of the 2000 vintage of and started selling the 2001 which, I am ashamed to admit, I had still not tasted.
I am thankful to the customer who brought to our attention the fact that the 2001 vintage fell short — way short, with an almost total lack of fruit. We have pulled the wine from our shelves until the matter is resolved — presumably with a new vintage. I find it hard to believe that Francois Cazin was unaware of the lack of quality in his ’01 vintage. What was he thinking? For our part we renew our resolve to taste before we order. Stay tuned.

Wine and Music

I often use the appreciation of, and listening to, music, as a metaphor for appreciating and tasting wine, but there is a winemaker who believes in playing music to the vines in his vineyard and the wine in his cellar.

Google “Il Paradiso Di Frassina” and you’ll get to the web page of Giancarlo Cionozzia, “a well- known winemaker and connoisseur of this part of Tuscany”, “this part” being Montalcino, home of Brunello, the third of “Italy’s Royal Reds” the other two being Barolo and Barbaresco. The website makes very interesting reading.
Giancarlo apparently bought a rundown farm at southern extreme of the Montalcino appellation at a place called Sant ’Antimo, renovated the buildings, built a modern winery and replanted the vineyards. As far as I can tell his first vintage was 2000.
You do not have to spend more than a minute or two on the Il Paradiso web page to realize that Giancarlo is a passionate person — passionate and poetic, especially about wine. For starters his logo has a Sixteenth musical note superimposed on the name, and thereby hangs a tale — he believes that grapes and wine respond to music, especially Mozart and Beethoven, so he has classical music piped into the vineyard and the cellar, which got him some publicity in the form of a segment on an ABC television program.
However, all of this would be inconsequential, without wines of merit. Il Paradiso di Frasinna ‘03 GEA, which bears the Sant’ Antimo appellation, is 100% Sangiovese Grosso and could presumably be labeled Brunello, except for the fact that it was aged in Limousin oak barrels for only 18 months instead of the required 48 months. We featured it at a Saturday tasting, where it earned accolades and open wallets despite its $29.99/26.99 price tag. The lovely, low-key oak, leathery, Sangiovese fruit and spicy, gentle tannic finish make it hard to resist. The name of the wine “Gea”, is the name of Giancarlo’s daughter, which comes from “Gaea” the Greek goddess of Mother Earth - the label depicts this quite succinctly.
The name of the Giancarlo’s second wine, “DO”, picks up on the musical theme. Il Paradiso di Frasinna ‘03 DO, Toscana IGT- the “Toscana IGT” means that the wine is Tuscan but does not conform to any Tuscan appellation — it is a maverick by virtue of its 50% Cabernet / 50% Sangiovese blend — in other words this is a so-called Super Tuscan. The yin and yang of Cabernet and Sangiovese, to say nothing of the Limousin oak, make this a simply stunning wine, and, by Super Tuscan standards, a real bargain at $44.99/41.49.
The piece de resistance is Il Paradiso di Frascinna ‘00 Brunello — the real thing, as good as any Brunello I’ve tasted in quite a while. Even now, fruit, tannin and oak are beautifully balanced — I can see this wine growing gracefully older, and even more complex, over the next 10 to 15 years — if you can wait!. Splurge - $65.00/68.50.

Pedigree Counts—Sometimes, says my cynical side

Bouzeron doesn’t ring many bells — and not for me until quite recently. Back in December I tasted and bought Paul Jacqueson’s ‘04 Bouzeron “Les Cordiers”, a white Burgundy made of Aligote, Burgundy’s other white grape which plays a remote second fiddle to Chardonnay, and which is often treated with disdain by wine snobs. However, Aligote can produce fine wines, not as fruity as Chardonnay, but more angular and minerally. I had forgotten what a knockout this wine is until we tasted it last Saturday. Somewhat expensive, but nevertheless great value at $21.99/19.79, earning it many fans.
Not long ago, I was offered a red Burgundy from Bouzeron. The producer is A. et P. de Villaine and the label says Bourgogne, Cote Chalonnaise, “La Fortune”, AOC Bouzeron 2004. The wine is light in color and body (“heathens” accustomed to over-oaked, New World fruit bombs would describe it as “thin” — all wines should be this thin), but oh! — the fruit — intense, ever so complex Pinot Noir with bright acidity and adequate tannin — elegant, ethereal, reminiscent, perhaps, of a stolen kiss. When I flipped over this wine, I did not know that the “A” of A et P deVillaine is Aubert de Villaine, co-owner of Domaine Romanee Conti, “DRC” for short.
Who or what is DRC? They are the producer if what are the most fabled, then certainly the most expensive wines in the whole wide world. They own a number of top vineyards and they market the wines to retailers in a manner known as conditional selling: To get a bottle of the top vineyard you are required to buy an assortment of five other vineyards. The DRC Montrachet ‘02 sells for about $2,300 — that is a bottle not a case. A bottle of DRC Grands Echezeaux ‘02 might set you back as much as $2,700. Sorry — I cannot offer you either, or for that matter, any DRC wine. I have only once tasted a DRC wine — it was many years ago, and I did not know that it was a DRC wine till after I had tasted it. I found it unremarkable — perhaps my fault, not that of the wine.
The joy derived from the de Villaine Pinot Noir prompted me to try, and buy, the A et P de Villaine ’04 Bouzeron Aligote, $24.99/22.49, so we now offer three Aligotes of which the de Villaine has the edge. Come to think of it the word “edge” comes close to the descriptor I am searching for. All three are all superb food wines and what sets them apart is an “edgy” minerality that focuses on the upper back of the mouth the rest of my palate simply “glows”— neither fruity nor oaky.
With a little research I find that Bouzeron, a tiny appellation, sandwiched between Rully to the south and Santenay,at the southern end of the Côte d’Or, to the north, is known for its Aligote and especially for the Aligote and Pinot Noir of Aubert de Villaine.

Reviews Can be Wrong

Yes, light can be lovely and here is another knockout example. Between the beginning of November and the middle of December we sold a ton of Concannon ‘03 Central Coast Syrah, $11.99/10.78, by which time it was gone, leaving many fans most unhappy. This was a wine that was panned by my heretofore trusty Connoisseur’s Guide to Californian Wines: “..it delivers little in the way of fruit or real richness before slipping away to a dry and slightly chalky finish.”. I guess one man’s meat is another man’s poison — some enjoy being hit over the head with a sledge hammer and some of us prefer to be gently wooed. I and many others were both wooed and wowed by the apparent absence of oak, the lovely, low-key Syrah fruit and the spicy, gently tannic finish. Rejoice — we have found another fifty cases. Don’t wait to get yours. On the other hand don’t depend on my or anyone else’s opinion — buy a bottle and decide for yourself.

Rick Lewis

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Let's Eat Out!

No Ranting this time around—only Raves. Something great has happened to Madison. For twenty years we have closed the store at 8 pm in a desolate, deserted downtown. Now, every night, there is life, laughter, and sometimes music, coming from the Madison Bistro outside our backdoor.
The Bistro joins two other restaurants that have long been favorites of ours and these three eateries were the topic of a recent column in the Shoreline Times which I am, with permission, reprinting in toto.

Quote

A Tale of Three Bistros

By Angela Lehman
Special to Out & About
It’s hard to believe but Chester’s Restaurant du Village is 25 years old. Consistently, for all these years, the first 10 of them under the founders Priscilla Martel and Charlie van Over and the subsequent 15 under the current owner/chefs Cynthia and Michel Keller, the food and ambiance has secured the intimate village bistro a ‘best restaurant’ appellation not just in Connecticut, not just in New England, but literally anywhere you might care to travel.
For their 25 th anniversary, the Kellers are offering a celebration $25 prix fixe menu on Sunday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. The 3-course menu will change nightly and feature Parisian style bistro classics such as onion soup, salad Lyonnaise, steak au poivre, blanquette de veau and crème caramel. Each ‘plat du jour’ is made daily and could run out, so it’s best to call ahead to see what might be available, just in case it might be something you don’t fancy. This special will continue during the summer but is not available on Saturday or holidays. The Restaurant du Village, closed on Monday and Tuesday, is located at 59 Main Street in Chester, call 860-526-5301.
Café Routier, the Yankee Bistro in Westbrook, is running a Brazilian regional menu along with the popular seasonal and specialties menus. Chef Jeff Renkl changes the regional offerings every few months. The Brazilian offerings include three starters ­ Piri-Piri shrimp marinated and grilled in a mango dipping sauce; Bolinhas de Milho ­ corn fritters in a coconut-lime dipping sauce and a salad of mango, hearts of palm and tomatoes in a lemon-cilantro vinaigrette ($8/9). Three entrees are Galinha Assada com Farofa ­ roast chicken with farofa stuffing, sautéed kale and a black bean sauce; Moqueca de Peixe, a Bahia style fish stew with coconut Basmati rice and Churrasco-style grilled hangar steak with yucca fries, sautéed spinach and chili-lime chimichurri ($22/25). Café Routier is open daily from 5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m., until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday at 1353 Boston Post Road, (860) 399-8700.
At the Madison Bistro, Chef Andrea Panno has teamed up with his neighbor Rick of Rick’s Picks fame to pair wines from the Madison Wine Shop with his dinner specials. Rick says “order your lunch or dinner and then stroll across the Courtyard and choose a Rick’s Pick wine to go with it.” As the Wine Shop closes at 8 p.m., if you are going to be late, a call to 800-899-rickpick or email to rick@rickspicks.com can secure a bottle by credit card to be left for you at the Bistro. Madison Bistro, which is a BYOB establishment, does not charge a corkage fee and provides glasses and cork pulling expertise. Current dinner specials include a starter of scallops over spinach in a wine lemon sauce ($11.95); entrees of fettucine Campagnola with asparagus, chicken, garlic and pesto ($12.95) and chicken rollatini with Prosciutto, smoked Mozzarella and served with fresh vegetables ($14.95). Chef Andrea advises that patrons should be prepared to wait an extra five minutes for their dishes as all meals are prepared from scratch. Sitting in the Courtyard on a warm summer evening with a glass of Rick’s favorite Cour-Cheverny ’00 ($14.99 per bottle) that can’t be too hard! Plus there is romantic live music outside on Friday and Saturday nights. Open daily from 9 a.m. for fresh coffee, cappuccino and latte plus breakfast wraps, until 9 p.m., until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.
In the NewAlliance Courtyard at 724 Boston Post Road (203) 245-4771 or 1597.
We welcome your restaurant news. Please send information by fax to 203-245-9437
or by email to outandabout@ctcentral.com.

End Quote
Reprinted from Shore Line Newspapers 8/24/05

Rick Lewis
Visit madisonwineshop.com | Questions or comments? Email info@madisonwineshop.com

A Week in the Life of a Happy Wine Pedlar

I am a Most Happy Fella - four, and often seven, days a week, I am having fun doing things I enjoy. This past week I talked to, and tasted wine with, scores of interesting people - my customers. I learn from them and share with them my passion for wine..

And then, I talk to wine people - sales people, importers and winemakers - in the store and frequently at trade tastings. This past week I probably tasted 40 wines, most of them not very inspiring, but I found some gems that I cannot wait to share with you. So here we go.
Baumard ‘00 “Trie Speciale” Savennieres is possibly one of the most sublime white wines I have ever tasted, but before I tell you about it, I should tell you about Savennieres.
Savennieres is a tiny appellation on the north bank of the Loire, south-west of the town of Angers, not far from the Atlantic. Total production in a good year is about 30,000 cases. Elsewhere, that would be the output of a small- to moderate-size winery. The grape is the Loire’s magical, ubiquitous Chenin Blanc, but here the slate and sandstone soil, and the climate, make it different. Yields, by law, are extremely low, but the inhospitable soil and climate, which gives the wine its remarkable character, limits the yield anyway - the cause of many growers abandoning the struggle to make a living, and the reason for the dwindling output of Savennieres.
The average wine drinker has not heard of Savennieres, and may never, but among a small international band of devotees, it is legendary. Bone dry and sharply acidic (now you know why I am a fan), it will live, no thrive, for 20 - 30 years, getting better as it ages. Roche Aux Moines and Coulee de Serrant, are the two Savennieres sub-appellations whose wines are especially sought after. We have several vintages of the Joly’s Coulee de Serrant, which I recommended very highly.
Now, let me tell you about the Baumard ‘00 “Trie Especiale”. Domaine des Baumard is neither in Coulee de Serrant nor Roche Aux Moines, but, in my opinion, the ‘00 “Trie Special” stands above any Savennieres that I have tasted. The “Trie Speciale” designation is reserved by the producer for exceptional vintages. The bouquet is botrytis - the “Noble Rot” of Sauternes - but remember, this wine is bone dry. The flavor too is botrytis, but mingled with the rich opulence and complexity of which Chenin Blanc is capable, as in the sweet wine of Coteaux du Lyon and Quarts de Chaume. The icing on the cake, underlying it all, is bright glowing acidity. Truly a feast for the palate.
What would you have it with? - any seafood, the richer the better, fruit, cheese, perhaps foie gras, or simply nothing. When should you open it? - any time between now and 2030. Who would you have it with? Only someone special?
We will be tasting Baumard ‘00 “Trie Speciale” starting at noon on Saturday September 3 (Labor Day Weekend). I’m betting that you will be tempted to pay me $49.99/44.99 a bottle. Come early!.
Family dynasties abound in Burgundy. Sometimes the connection is only in the name, so it behooves you to know which member or branch you are dealing with. I was un-familiar with the wines of Bernard Moreau until I tasted his ‘ 03 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieille Vignes - an Estate Bottled red, not that appellation’s usual white. What a happy surprise! From the bouquet to the lovely finish, it is all I hope and ask for. Light, lively and loaded with bright Pinot fruit. You could spend much more than $34.99/31.49 and get much less.
The same salesman offered me Domaine Cheysson ‘04 Chiroubles, one of the ten “Cru” Beauojolais - the very best that the appellation has to offer and only $15.99/14.39. I have not had a Chiroubles in the store in ages, but this one I could not resist - from its stunning bouquet to typical Chiroubles light, bright, fresh raspberry/strawberry fruit. If the Nouveau hype and rip-off have turned you off of the appellation, reconsider. The same Gamay grape, in regular Beaujolais, and Beaulolais Village, with good fruit and acid balance can be a treat, while in the Crus, it is often indistinguishable from the Pinot Noir of Burgundy.
Alsatian wines - despite the shape of the bottle and the Germanic names of many of the producers - are not German (not any more) and, unless labeled “Vendange Tardive”, (late harvest) they are not sweet. They are my kind of wines - not lacking in acidity, and invariably, totally lacking in oak. They age beautifully and are wonderful with food. Gewurztraminer (“Gewurz” for short) is the most common varietal, followed by Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Blanc and occasionally Pinot Noir. I look for Muscat, but rarely find it.
This same week, I picked up (‘grabbed’ would be more accurate) two Alsatian wines from Domaine Michel Fonne - the ‘03 Pinot Gris, $15.99/14.39, and ‘03 Pinto Blanc, $11.99/10.79, both from the renowned Bennwihr vineyard - two very different wines that go wonderfully with food. The Pinot Gris is rich, complex and mouth-filling - almost unctuous - loved by everyone. Pinot Blanc, I have always thought of as being “shy” - low-key when it first hits your palate requiring you to coax it. When you do, the lovely bright fruit emerges reluctantly - your patience is rewarded.
Who would have thought that a Rosé sparkling wine would have moved me and everyone who has since tasted it? Renardt-Fache’s ‘04 Bugey Cerdon comes from the appellation of that name, in the Jura foothills to the east of Beaujolais. The label says “Methode Ancestral - demi-sec, pétillant par fermentation spontanée” - off-dry, slightly sparkling, by spontaneous fermentation. My wine authority calls it a particular speciality among a disparate collection of grape varieties, wine styles and terroirs, most of which are consumed locally. With light food, there’s joy aplenty in this bottle!
Three, uncommon Reds, two Italian and one Spanish were the harvest of yet another day.
From Tenuta Montebello in Piedmont, Per Marco ‘03 Barbera del Monferrato Superiore is one of those joyous minglings of old-world and new-world styles that has kept the best of both - a tannic backbone and lovely complex varietal fruit that does not quit. $19,99.17.99
Poggio al Sole is a Chianti producer who has, happily, strayed far from his roots with his ‘03 Syrah. If it were a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 15% Syrah it could be labeled Chianti, but this 100% Syrah could not. Hence the back label says “Toscana IGT”. They are doing good things with Syrah in Sicilly, but not consistently, and the few Tuscan Syrahs I have tasted did not impress me. This one does. It follows neither the classic Northern Rhone style nor the oaky, fruity new-world style. It is elegant, but unmistakably Syrah. Not inexpensive at $39.99/35.99, but I bought it!
The French grape Mourvedre hides, unknown and unloved in many southern French reds, to which it imparts tannin and dark, spicy fruit. The wines of Bandol are entirely Mourverdre, and most of them are undrinkable until the lovely bouquet and black fruit flavors emerge from the depths of the tannins - sometimes as long as five years after the vintage.
Monastrell, the Spanish name for Mourvedre, has long been cultivated in the south, around Jumilla, but only recently has the grape’s potential been exploited. Whether due to soil, climate, winemaking or, a clonal variation, Monastrell from Jumila is unlike Mourvredre from Bandol. Typical Monastrell, offers immediate gratification in its youth - vibrant, intense, ripe black fruit, ample tannin and, not as apparent, high acidity, which not only enhances your enjoyment in a subtle way, but helps to stabilize the wine especially once the bottle has been opened..
Juan Gil ‘03 Jumilla, $17.99/16.19, is 100% Monastrell, and what I describe as an elegant wine, meaning that it is low-key and complex, with fruit, tannin and acid in perfect balance, getting my attention by stealth rather than by force. I love it! I bought it!
And finally, another “experience” of this particular week. On Thursday I tasted a Bordeaux Superieur, which shall be nameless . It was fabulous! Exquisite, spicy nose. Wonderful, complex fruit, lovely tannins and great length. It would have to sell for $33 - outrageous for a Bordeaux Superieur, but my reaction was “This beats, hands down, most fifty or even one hundred dollar wines from anywhere”. The next day my order was delivered and I immediately opened a bottle and sold six bottles between 4pm and 7pm.
On Saturday, we continued tasting from the same bottle, opened 18 hours earlier. Noticing that no one had made any comment I took a taste - Bouquet gone! Fruit gone! Only tannin left. I was flabbergasted! Opened a second bottle - it was great, but six hours later it too had faded.
The wine is not for me. Sent an email to the supplier, relating my experience and telling him that I wished to return the wine. A message came back that he was sure that he wine went flat because the severe storms we had on the Friday night were accompanied by low barometric pressure, a phenomena he had experienced before. I have heard many wine myths, but for sheer inventiveness, this takes the cake. This myth can be destroyed by simply pointing out that the pressure in any unopened bottle of wine is unlikely to be at ambient atmospheric pressure.
The wine’s flaw is probably low acidity.
This incident puts the spotlight on my aversion to those numeric wine ratings and raises an interesting question “how many times, and over what period of time after opening it, did the reviewer taste that bottle of wine in arriving at his rating?” Once exposed to the air wine changes - some wines change slowly, some rapidly, some improve initially, some do not, all are eventually destroyed by oxygen. Beware of those numbers!
Rick Lewis
Visit madisonwineshop.com | Questions or comments? Email info@madisonwineshop.com

What is Lighter than Red, Brighter than White and is Un-Oaked?

Why, Rosé of course! Dry Rosé offers a whole new dimension to wine, neither red nor white, with endless variation depending on varietals and styles. They are especially enjoyable in the summer, and, at any season, with light meals like Sunday brunch. Forget about those sweet cotton-candy blush wines that started so many of us on the way to enjoying wine, but then planted the seeds of color prejudice. There are still some of those around, but there are many dry Rosés, ranging from pale, delicate, light wines that trip across the palate and make that Sunday brunch with smoked white fish, or salmon memorable, to bold versions that are miraculous with the likes of barbequed steak or lamb on a hot summer day. But I’m not finished - how about sparkling Rosé that covers all the bases, including your Thanksgiving turkey dinner?
One blessing of Rosé - the almost complete absence of what has been called MSG for wine, namely oak. Also, because, with few exceptions, most Rosé wine labels are silent regarding the grapes used to make the wine, I must disclaim the accuracy of any mention of grape varietals - my sources are known to be unreliable.
This year, for the first time, the Bordelaise have hopped on the Rosé bandwagon - among them Chateau Pichon Lalande - my favorite Paulliac producer, and Chateau Pavie, a Grand Gru St Emillion. This is as much a sign that Rosé is now legitimate as it is a sign of the tough times in the French wine business - too much wine and a weak dollar. Both the Pichon Lalande “Rosé des Tourelles” ‘04, $14.99/13.49, and the Chateau Pavie “La Rosee de Pavie” ‘04, $15.99/14.39, are Estate Bottled, beautifully focused wines that will enhance any light food. Do not make them super cold - my preference - about 65 degrees F.
Another new-comer, this from Tuscany, is Rignana ‘03 Rosato, which I am told is 100% Canaiolo. Until about four years ago, when the traditional Chianti rules were relaxed, Canaiolo was an incognito stowaway in every bottle labeled “Chianti”. This is the first straight Canaiolo wine I have ever tasted - and is it ever different - unlike anything I have ever experienced. The color is unique - dark bronze. It has tannin - enough to accompany beef off the barbeque, and the flavor is extraordinary, both the fruit and the tang are subtlety but distinctly cranberry. This eye-popping experience will cost you about $13.99/12.59 - and you’ll be back for more.
I have always had a preference for sparkling wines, Champagne included, that are made of red-skinned grapes, most notably Pinot Noir. The Blanc de Noir versions are made with no skin contact so that the wine is white. Depending upon the length of skin contact with the fermenting juice, Rosé sparkling wines range in color from the palest salmon to nearly deep red. I love them. They usually have more character than the Blanc de Blancs, which brings me to another personal peeve.
In my humble personal opinion, too many sparkling wines, Champagne included, are made using wine of mediocre, if not inferior quality, disguised by the “bubbles” and the cold temperature at which they invariably consumed. Try this! Leave your sparkling wine in the glass until it is flat and at room temperature. Would you then drink it?

I unintentionally did this with a stunning Rosé Cava (Spanish sparkling wine) from Mont Ferrant that we offered at a recent Saturday Tasting. Five days later, before tossing out the half-empty, stoppered bottle that had been left on the tasting table, I tasted it. It was delicious! Virtually everyone who tasted that flat, room temperature Rosé, bought a bottle or more. Mont Ferrant Rosé Cava has a lovely pink color; has a sensuous bouquet, lovely delicate fruit, no detectable residual sugar and a long, bright crisp finish. Who can ask for more for $14.99/13.49? What grapes? I’m not sure. Keep it in mind for Thanksgiving.
You can find dry Rosés, made of many grape varietals, from almost any wine producing area of the world. If you are a Cabernet Sauvignon fan, I can recommend Snoqualmie ‘03 “Cirque de Rose” from Washington State. It is relatively dark in color, with exuberant Cabinet fruit that may lead you to think it is sweet, but your taste buds are playing tricks - it is bone dry - and it makes me wonder why so many regular Cabs are obliterated with oak.. “Cirque de Rosé” slightly chilled will go with anything you want to barbeque, for only $8.99/8.09.
From the Penedes region of Spain, the peculiarly named “1 + 1 = 3" winery offers a delicious ‘03 Cabernet Rosé that is not quite as fruity. It sells for about $16.99/15.29. I am told that the winery name is an idiomatic Catalan expression having to do with sex!
The inhospitable region of Priorat in north-eastern Spain, while it taxes human fortitude, brings forth the ultimate expression of those varietals that can survive its harsh soil and climate. A young woman, Sylvia Puig, is the artisan who produced the minuscule vintage of Odysseus ‘04 Rosado, an incredibly complex wine made entirely of Grenache - worth every penny of its $20.99/18.89 price.
Syrah makes great Rosé - Vina Robles ‘04 “Roseum”, from Paso Robles, California, $17.99/16,19, and , for $14.99/13.49, Mourgues du Gres ‘03 “Les Galets”, from Nimes in the south of France, show two of the many faces of my favorite varietal. The Californian offers more fruit; the French has less fruit and more spice - both will go well with your barbequed beef or lamb.
All said and done, southern French Rosés remain the most sought after, perhaps because of the wide selection and great variety. Many of them are made from unspecified varietals, and guessing what they might be can be fun. A classic Provencal Rosé is Bargemone ‘03, and my guess, both from the orange/bronze color and the zesty finish, is that it has more than a smidgin of Mourvedre. For $13.99/12.59 you can be transported to a Provencal country restaurant on a warm summer day.
I suspect that Lancyre ‘03 Rose, $12.99/11.69, from Languedoc’s Pic St. Loup is largely Syrah and Grenache, while the $9.99/8.99, Massamier La Mignarde ‘04, appears to have no Syrah, but may have some Cinsault. Both are delightful.
Villerambert ‘04 from Minervois, one of the leading appellations in Languedoc, is richly flavored - I suspect Syrah, Grenache and perhaps either Cinsault or Carignan - continues, at $10.99/9.89, to be a best-seller.
Provenza ‘03 Chiaretto, from Italy’s Lombardy, is surprisingly the most subtle of all my current Rosés. I say surprisingly because of the cepage - Sangiovese, Barbera, Marzema, and Groppello. This delicate, but complex wine can be had for $12.99/11.69.
Pinot Noir makes wonderful Rosé, particularly from Sancerre in the Loire, but there is no still Rosé currently available. Instead, try Jean Laurent Brut Rosé Champagne, with or without food - you will be surprised, delighted and satisfied that you got your $39.99/35.99's worth.
Rick Lewis
Visit madisonwineshop.com | Questions or comments? Email info@madisonwineshop.com

The Wallflower Wine Beats the Belle of the Ball - Every Time

I have said it before, I’ll say it again and I’ll probably continue saying it - if my only choices were Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay, I’d choose Sauvignon Blanc every time.
Yes, there are disgusting examples, and, depending upon your taste, exquisite samples of wine made from both grapes. But for diversity and the excitement of the unexpected that makes wine so much fun, give me Sauvignon Blanc. Its wines can be found in an endless variety of styles - in-your-face tropical-fruit cocktail with a “locker-room” bouquet, which I can do without; barrel-fermented, barrel-aged in the style of New World Chardonnay, some of which are great; wines that have varying intensity of citrus fruit with good acidity and moderate levels of oak, typical of New Zealand expressions of the grape; and then there are wines that have great acidity, with austere, minerally fruit and no detectable oak - I think of them as “vertical” wines that go razor-sharp down the middle of my palate without ever touching the sides of my mouth. In addition, there are often big stylistic differences within appellations and regions, depending on soil, climate and the hand of the wine-grower.
This outburst of passion has been occasioned by Chateau de la Presle’s Touraine 2000 Vieilles Vignes which swept me off my feet less than an hour ago. I knew from the Touraine appellation that it would be predominantly Sauvignon Blanc, but in a blind tasting I’d never have guessed it. I’d have opted for a Grand Cru White Burgundy which would have implied Chardonnay (although there are rare White Burgundies made of Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Gris), but certainly not the Chardonnay we expect from the New World. This extraordinary wine is elegant and subtle, with exquisite fruit and perfectly balanced acid. A mere hint of oak - I am told that 25% was aged in new oak, 25% in old, often called ‘neutral’, barrels that serve as a porous container, allowing passage of air, and 50% in stainless steel. The Vieilles Vignes, meaning “old vines”,on the label is often mere window dressing, but in this case it may in part account for the wine’s complexity and lingering, other-world appeal. So what does it taste like? Sorry - aside from a delicious, hauntingly citrus-like note in mid-palate, I do not have the words, but I am transported ! I am looking forward to enjoying it with all kinds of light dishes especially seafood. You’ll not regret shelling out $28.99/26.09.
Keep in mind that, like many Old World wines, the Chateau de la Presle label says nothing regarding the grapes that went into the wine. I am assured that it is 100% Sauvignon Blanc, although Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay are allowed in the wines of Touraine, a Loire Valley appellation. Another Touraine example on our shelves, Domaine Deletang, 2002 “Cepage Sauvignon”, has an intriguing bouquet with hints of citrus. The fruit is sharply focused, but low-key and, unlike the Ch de la Presle, unmistakably Sauvignon. Enjoy with seafood or chicken - $13.99/12.59

Reuilly (pronounced “rwoo-ee”) is also a Loire Valley appellation and is always 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Claude Lafond’s Clos Fussay ‘03 Reuilly is typical of the appellation and poles apart from Chateau Presle’s Touraine. The Reully is intense, with grassy, citrus bouquet and fruit, and loads of acidity. By the way, that wine tasting descriptor, “grassy”, covers a multitude of vinous olfactory sensations, most frequently encountered in Sauvignon Blanc, the more pleasant of which are the smell of new-mown hay or grass and variations thereof, progressing to what is often referred to as “cat-pee”, or by me, as “locker-room”. I suspect that soil and more likely, climate are responsible for this characteristic. The grassiness of Lafond’s Reuilly is a true delight, especially with stronger flavored foods - $14.99/13.49 .

At their best, the Loire appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume offer wines that are of the razor-sharp, austere and minerally versions of Sauvignon Blanc - Domaine Cailbourdin ‘02 Pouilly-Fume “Les Cris”, $24.99/22.49, in this style, is out of this world with any seafood - so bright, tangy and clean.

The Sauvignon Blancs of New Zealand, especially those from Marlborough, are a reflection of the climate. Marlborough is a flat valley, bounded on the north, west and south by mountains and open to the Pacific to the east. Hot during the day, but cooled by a brisk sea breeze which blows in every evening before sunset. My current favorite is Monkey Bay ‘04- bright, vibrant, yet restrained tropical fruit and only $9.99/8.99 I was told, when we visited New Zealand that the labeling laws are quite straight forward - what ever appears on the label must be true, and my interpretation of this label is that it is a negotiant wine, the producer is anonymous and the Monkey Bay is a company in Woodbridge, California. But I quibble.

Tasman Bay ‘04 from Nelson on the western side, at the extreme north of New Zealand’s South Island is yet another manifestation of Sauvignon Blanc - light and crisp with an extremely delicate, perfumey and floral bouquet, that repeats on the palate. Stunningly unique - superb with delicate seafood the likes of sole or flounder. $15.99/14.59

There are many good South American reds, and many are exceptional values, but acceptable whites are few and far between. Manta ‘04 Sauvignon Blanc from the Central Valley of Chile is one of the few. It is delightfully fresh, and crisp with hints of tropical fruit. Unfortunately, the wine has a problem- its price. At $6.99/6.29, it is shunned and must be sold on bended knee!

Boschendal Grande Cuvee Sauvignon Blanc, has been on our shelves longer than any other South African wine. It is unique. Barrel fermented, but in a style that avoids the excessive oak that overpowers many New World, so-called “buttery”, Chardonnays. Like its predecessors, the ‘04 vintage strikes a perfect balance between the soft, almost sweet, oak; the rich Sauvignon fruit; and the creamy vanilla contributed by the secondary, malolactic, fermentation. It goes with many dishes, where its weight and texture offer an alternative to red wine. Excellent value at $16.99/15.29

The dominant grape varietals in white Bordeaux wines are Sauvignon Blanc, and Semillon, sometimes alone and sometimes together. The label will invariably tell you nothing. You can usually distinguish between the two when comparing wines each of which is predominantly one varietal. The Semillon is usually richer and fuller (it is the grape of Sauternes). Muscadelle is often another unheralded component of white Bordeaux. The only thing you can be sure of is that it is never Chardonnay, in whole or in part. I recommend Ch Menaut ‘03, a white Graves which is 100% Sauvignon (it says so on the labels, both back and front). Beautifully rich and round and only $11.99/10.89. Another recommendation would be Chateau de Castelneau ‘03 Entre-Deaux-Mers, Its label says, (my approximate translation) “the blend has the vivacity of Sauvignon, the fullness of Semillon and the fruit of Muscadelle”. I second that in spades. And only $9.99/8.99.

Rick Lewis

Visit madisonwineshop.com | Questions or comments? Email info@madisonwineshop.com

Chateau Ste Michelle & Washington State - Take a Bow!

The Best Chardonnay Values in the Store

You are not going to believe this - I have found not one but two domestic Chardonnays that I love and can afford. Both are stunning, 2001 Chateau Ste Michelle, single-vineyard wines from the Columbia Valley of Washington State. Both are priced at a remarkable $16.99/15.29, but there the similarity ends. To the sense of taste and smell, they are remarkably different. I would be hard-pressed to choose between them - and I did not. I bought both, leaving the choice up to you. Either way you are going to be very happy.
The Cold Creek Vineyard '01 Reserve Chardonnay is a stunning new-world style wine. Barrel fermented in new French oak, followed by malolactic fermentation, and aged on the lees for 11 months. The bouquet is quite sensational, a rich mouthfeel, with lovely restrained fruit, hints of vanilla from the malo fermentation, all framed in stunningly restrained oak. You need only one sip, perhaps only one sniff to understand why I, and many of you, are turned off by so many Chards that are heavy and dominated by harsh, bitter wood flavors. What kind of palate do the people who make these wines have? What in the world are they using? Might it be wood extract?
You can enjoy and savor Cold Creek Chard on its own, but it makes a banquet out of any but the lightest of seafood, any white meat dish, even pasta (but no tomato sauce!).
The Canoe RidgeVineyard '01 Reserve Chardonnay is very different wine - lighter on the palate, less fruity, less oaky and brighter with a more acidic backbone. Distinctly old-world style - food wine. Surprisingly, it too, was barrel fermented in new French oak and aged on the lees for 10 months. How to explain the dramatic difference between these two wines? I do not understand why the oak in this wine is so much more subtle than in the Cold Creek. Soil, exposure, climate and particularly temperature no doubt account for the differences in fruit and acid. The Canoe Ridge Vineyard climate is the cooler of the two, but one might wonder if the winemaker, either deliberately or otherwise, had something to do with the dramatic difference in bouquet, taste and mouthfeel. I e-mailed the winemaker and asked the question. For those of you who are interested, Bob.Bertheau's answers (there are two of them), appear as foot-notes to this column. They make very interesting reading.
Regardless, both are exciting world-class wines - Rick's Picks at a bargain price. At a Saturday tasting they were a huge hit. Surprisingly, the old-world Canoe Ridge, outsold the new-world Cold Creek about 3-to-1, reflecting the fact that, at least at the Madison Wine Shop, oak is out.
I urge you to buy a bottle of each, take them home and have a ball making your own comparison. Above all drink them no colder than 65 degrees, even room temperature. Let me know your reaction.
An Old Washington State Favorite is Back
Almost exactly four years ago I tasted and flipped over Snoqualmie '98 Cabernet Sauvignon. We bought every case we could get and over the next two years it was our best-selling domestic wine. Snoqualmie, like Columbia Crest, is a Chateau Ste Michelle property with its own vineyards, winery and winemaker, Joy Anderson.
When the "chocolate" wine, as many customers still call the '98 Cab, ran out, as all vintages inevitably do, we tried the '99 vintage and passed. So Snoqualmie disappeared from our shelves - until two weeks ago when I tasted the Snoqualmie '01 Rosebud Vineyard Cab. It is lovely and rich right off the cork, but aerate it, and, after a short while, wonderful cocoa/chocolate bouquet and flavor notes begin to evolve. The wine is reminiscent of its '98 predecessor - unique. It stands out from the legions of look-alike Cabs. Complex, balanced, and unfailing in its ability to offer joy from the first drop out of the bottle to the very last drop in the glass. Yours for $17.99/16.79.
The Snoqualmie Rosebud Vineyard is on the northern reaches of the Columbia River, on the Wahkuke Slope, one of the warmest areas in the Columbia Valley. One thinks of Washington State as northern, wet and cool - but the Cascade Mountains intervene, trapping the moisture on the western slope, leaving the eastern slope a desert - hot during the day and cool at night with plenty of sunshine. That is Syrah climate and its coming! Stay tuned.
One last word about these wines - they are the product of a giant corporation, that could be counted as part of what I call the expanding, evil empire, but they are not! The giants in the business are growing fewer and bigger, focused on building "brands", volume, and their bottom line. Passionate wine making is the province of the small winegrower. They are being squeezed by the mass-marketers and their numbers are dwindling. I understand that 90% of all Australian wine, becoming evermore homogenized, is made by four huge conglomerates, with the remaining 10% coming from some 800 or more small producers.
Over the years Chateau Ste-Michelle's pricing has been restrained and their quality overall has been maintained if not improved - of course not every wine in every vintage. Chateau Ste Michelle's '93 Cold Creek Cab Franc was our greatest Washington State hit. When our inventory ran out in 1999 we enquired about a new vintage and were informed that there would be no more straight Cab Franc - it was all being blended. We screamed bloody murder! They heard the screams and found 25 cases of the '93 at the winery, which they sold to us in 2000 for the same price we paid in 1995. We have just 30 bottles remaining, at the original price $27.99/25/19.
While they do have a few entries into the so-called super premium category, Chateau Ste Michelle did not succumb to the madness that has beset so many domestic producers. I get the impression that here is a conglomerate that has given its winemaking arm free reign and a mandate to make quality wine in every price bracket at a fair profit. They always have made a significant effort to educate their distributors and any retailer who wishes to participate. They are building their brands on the basis of quality and value, not hype. I support them.
Rick Lewis
Scroll down to Winemaker Bob Bertheau's Response

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Bob Bertheau, Chateau Ste Michelle's Winemaker, Responds
(Note: Bob did not make the 2001 wines - his first vintage at Chateau Ste Michelle was the 2003 - coming soon)
Hello Rick,
Really glad you enjoyed the Chardonnays, Rick. Your comments are highly regarded and spot on.
The Canoe Ridge (CR) Chard is stylized to be more restrained, elegant and more "seamless" in its expressions (including oak). The Cold Creek (CC) Chard is stylized to be more 'in your face', intense, and powerful. That also follows with the oak expression as well. I hope you see that oak expression is less obvious and better integrated in all the Chards from my initial vintage here at Ste. Michelle.
Three major points about the oak expression in the wines:
1) I have brought the %New oak down from 95%+ where it used to be. The CR Chard is down to about 40% New Oak, while the CC is at about 60%. That is one obvious point while the CR is less obvious.........the %New is lower.
2) Longer drawn out fermentations with different yeasts allow for better integration of the oak components as the yeast stay alive longer with the yeasts that I use. This allows the yeast more live contact time to integrate, or 'fine' out the harsher, more obvious oak tannins.
3) Different coopers all have different sensory impacts on the wines. I choose the spicier, elegant French coopers (Boutes, Remond) for the Canoe Ridge to match the style that the vineyard gives me. I choose more roast/toast, rich style of barrels to match the intense, powerful fruit from Cold Creek (Dargaud et Jaegle, Seguin Moreau).
Hope this explains things for you. Here is a little letter I wrote to our own folks to help them with the style cues, but retailers can certainly use it as well!
Bob Bertheau, Head Winemaker, Chateau Ste. Michelle
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To: Sellers, Buyers and Lovers of Chardonnay
From: Bob Bertheau
CBA!
Did you ever hear of the group espousing the sentiment "ABC?" You know……..Anything But Chardonnay……….folks that are tired of the heavy-handed, oak-splintery wines that you never want that second glass of(and sometimes, not even a first).
Well, with the grand launch of the Ste Michelle 2003 Chardonnays, we want to turn this group around, literally and figuratively. ABC…….turns around to CBA………Chardonnay, Back Again!
When I made my winemaking trek to Washington in summer of 2003 to start at the Chateau, I came on board with some ideas about how to change up the chardonnay programs. My ideas were a combination of what I felt the market was now wanting (or not wanting) along with my own personal touch with chardonnay styles and winemaking techniques from 18 years of making them.
Three key elements to be looking for in the 2003 Chardonnays:
Better separation of programs. If we are going to have 5 chardonnays, there needs to be obvious differences and talking points.
Better integrated oak. I have decreased (in some cases dramatically) the % of new oak AND using different yeast and stirring regimes to integrate the oak that is present. Oak is a spice, NOT the main ingredient.
Softer, more complex mouthfeels. In a corollary of the old saying - "It's the mouthfeel, stupid". Different yeasts, fining techniques and blending have all been changed with the common goal of softening up the palate impressions.
I think each wine also enjoys a "Mission Statement." These are key elements and styles that need to be kept in mind at every step of the winemaking process. Here are some mantras for my Chards:
Columbia Valley - "I'll have another glass, please." Soft, approachable and yet still complex for the price point.
Indian Wells - Rich, unctuous and tropical, this wine is from warmer climate Wahluke Slope Chard that gives it underlying texture and richness.
Canoe Ridge - From our windy, climate tempered vineyard overlooking the Columbia River, this wine shows higher tones of citrus and apple with elegance, breed and exceptional refinement.
Cold Creek - Tradition, power and structure are the key words to remember for the age-worthy wines from our oldest vineyard. Big, but not seeming overbearing, that is the challenge with these low yield, concentrated chardonnays.
Ethos - "Old World" complexity and style with our "New World" fruit. Nutty, complex and at the same time amazingly refined in the palate, this is my own personal statement about how world class I feel we can be in Washington with our Chardonnay.
I hope you all can see the direction we are heading with these wines and can become as excited selling them as I am in making them. Taste the wines as you read my emphasizing points. Take these points, ideas and style cues and personalize them to yourself as much as I have here at the Chateau.
Cheers!
Bob    Visit madisonwineshop.com | Questions or comments? Email info@madisonwineshop.com

2005 Begins With a Big Italian Bang

Chardonnay lovers - listen up! I have a Chardonnay from, of all places, Piedmont, Italy, and from a producer of Italy’s “Royal Reds” - Barolo and Barbaresco. One would think that a Chardonnay from a Barolo producer would rival any blockbuster fruit-and-oak Californian Chardonnay. In fact, plain “oak-blockbuster” precisely describes the $65 Gaya 1988 Gaia & Rey Piedmontese “cult” Chardonnay, which I ended up pouring down the drain, as undrinkable, in 1993. So having learned the hard way, I approached, with a jaundiced eye, the Barale ‘03 Langhe, Bussia Chardonnay, offered to me by a salesman.

Langhe, is the name given to the hills, around the Piedmontese town of Alba, on which are the vineyards that produce Barolo and Barbaresco. Bussia is the name of one of the most prestigious of those hills. Expecting the worst, I decided not to ask the price until I had tasted. To my surprise and joy, I found lovely, pristine Chardonnay fruit, alive and bright in my mouth, unencumbered with oak and the heavy, “butteriness”, which comes largely from secondary malolactic fermentation. I fell instantly in love with the wine, imagining how beautifully it will go with almost any light food.
So what does it cost? A mere $14.99/13.49! Phenomenal value. Join the gold-rush.
Another white Piedmontese gem - a Gavi, discovered last October and now on our shelves - Cascina degli Ulvi ‘03, $16.99/15.29. Gavi is Italy’s fashionable white wine, and Gavi di Gavi is even more fashionable. Both come from the appellation by that name surrounding the town of Gavi. I have found much of it, both in Italy and here, to be uninspiring - this, the first I have carried in years, is not. It offers an unusual nutty note in the nose and in the palate, and it finishes cleanly and crisply. Great balance. The grape is Cortese, of which we have another non-Gavi example - Bersano ‘02 Piemonte Cortese, $9.99/8.99, with delicate almond flavor, a creamy texture and a crisp finish. Both wines go well with seafood.
More Italy - Corte Marzago ”Le Bugne” ‘01, Veronese IGT, $19.99/17.99. The IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica or “[Wine] Typical of the Geographic Region”, which in this case is Verona. This wine, made of Cabernet and Corvina grapes, does not meet the requirements for a DOC (“controlled appellation”) wine, hence the IGT designation. Here is a wine with unusual, stunning black fruit, beautifully balanced with tannin and acid and perhaps a smidgin of wood.
An aside - you will be seeing more Italian wines with the IGT designation. The story goes back about twenty-five years when the first so-called “Super Tuscan” wines appeared on the market. Until quite recently, in order to qualify as DOC Chianti, a wine, among other requirements, had to be made of three grape varietals - Sangiovese and Canaiola, both red, and Malvasia, a white. Chianti producers who experimented with all Sangiovese or Sangiovese and Cabernet, could not claim DOC status, so the wines were labeled “Table Wine from Tuscany” or something similar, but the popular nickname became Super Tuscan. Today they would be labeled IGT, but for some, the nickname will no doubt persist.
Since the early eighties the prices of Super Tuscans soared from around twenty dollars to, in many instances, well over a hundred dollars - prices rarely obtained for Chianti. The producers realized that they had shot themselves in their Chianti foot, so to speak. Consequently, a few years ago they changed the rules. Chianti now must be at least 85% Sangiovese but the remaining 15% can be any varietal including Sangiovese.
Malvasia is used widely in Italian white wines, but whatever will happen to poor little Canaiolo?
Until early in December, when I was offered Rignana’03 Rosado, a Tuscana IGT, I had never seen straight Canialo, nor did I know what it tasted like, although I understand that its use in Chianti is to soften the Sangiovese. My first reaction - who needs a Rosè in December? But, happily, I never pass-up an opportunity to taste wine. I found a gem! - pale bronze in color, light zesty fruit that reminds me of persimmon - or is it the tannin that reminds me of persimmon? Never mind. This wine, at room temperature or slightly chilled, will make any meal, winter or summer, memorable. Innovative, inspired wine-making for just $13.99/14.59 - it makes my spirit soar!.
Inspired by the Barale Chardonnay hailed above, I am working my way through sampling Barale reds - first up, the ‘01 Barbaresco. Sitting at my computer as we speak, I am reveling in a just-opened bottle. Unlike so many of its tribe of Piedmontese “royals”, Barolo and Barbaresco, fashioned from Nebbiola, this wine, at the tender age of but three years, is open and irresistible. A rich perfume and earthy bouquet - no wood. The bouquet is echoed in the mouth in perfect balance with the fairly ripe tannins - again I detect little trace of wood in a lovely lingering finish Planning to do more than just sip tomorrow night with a hearty beef stew. Yours for $39.99/35.99.
2000 Vintage Barolo is Hot - or is it Hype?
The Wine Spectator (I think of it as the Wine Speculator) has touted the entire 2000 vintage of Barolo with a score of 100. Ridiculous! But many disciples take that to mean “go out and buy any and every Barolo you can lay your hands on”. Well, watch out! I have tasted a number of 2000 Barolo’s finding many too tannic to evaluate on a quick taste immediately after opening, which is the case at most trade tastings. So I am in the process of buying bottles of selected producers wines and evaluating them over a period of days. I do not need to taste the entire vintage - I need only to find a handful, or even one that rings my bell without breaking the bank.
Stay tuned.
The Madison Wine Shop is Not Moving
Finally, for those of you who have not heard the news - the Madison Wine Shop is staying put. It would have been fun to design and layout a new Madison Wine Shop from scratch, but would it have outweighed the headaches of moving? I am happy we will not know

Rick Lewis
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A Wine that Lives up to its Reputation, and a Few that have No Reputation - Not Yet!

The latest issue of the Wine Editorial is in the mail and I realize that it contains not a single reference to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, a wine that has a reputation, a good one, and actually lives up to it most of the time. How it got that reputation, along with Pouilly-Fuisse and Pomard, is a mystery. The mystique, exists even among people who know and care next to nothing about wine. Even among fans of Chateauneuf-du-Pape are those who are unaware of where it comes from, what grapes it is a made of, or even what the name means. But so what - wine should be enjoyed, not admired.

The name, meaning the, “New Home of the Pope” goes back to 1309 when the Gascon Pope, Clement V, set-up house in Avignon. Chateauneuf, as it is frequently referred to, is today one of many Southern Rhone appellations, but it was the prototype of the entire appellation contrôlé system, based on geographic delimitation, with regulations enforced to ensure the quality of all wines bearing the appellation. Geographically, Chateauneuf is confined to a “bump” in the flood plain of the Rhone, some five miles by five miles and perhaps 300 feet high. Although as many as ten varietals are allowed, Grenache predominates, along with Mourevedre and Syrah. The wines are generally robust, rich, full-flavored and spicy. Traditional wine-making ferments the grapes with the stems, giving the wine more tannic structure and complexity, while the modern trend is to de-stem, producing wines that are softer and more accessible. I personally prefer traditional wines but regardless, modern or traditional, they are thoroughly enjoyable and invariably long-lived. I have rarely been disappointed by old Chateauneufs, and even old Cotes-du-Rhone, going back to the ‘60s.

Like so many Chateauneufs and Cotes-du-Rhone, the wines of Domaine Bois du Boursan reflect the passion of the owner wine-growers Jean and Jean-Paul Versino.Boursan. I recently attended a vertical tasting of their wines spanning more than ten vintages. The wines, both young and old, were impressive. We have Domaine Bois du Boursan ‘99, $29.99/26.99 and Domaine Bois du Boursan ‘00 , Cuvee Felix, $79.99/71.99 The ‘99 is lovely - quite approachable now with promise for the future, but good as it is, it pales in comparison to the Cuvee Felix which is deeper and broader with layers of dark fruit and tannin - hard to resist, even now. If push comes to shove, I have a home for all of it.

Over the past 20 years Chateau Beaucastel has become the star of Chateauneuf thanks to terrific wine-making. Unfortunately, with rising reputation comes rising prices. Of the several vintages we have, I would, at this time, recommend the ‘95 Chateau Beaucastel at $69.00/62.10.

More affordable, and in my preferred traditional style, Domaine de Galet, ‘97 “Tradition”, $23.99/21.59, is a terrific value. The word “Galet’ refers to the round pebbles stones which cover much of the Chateauneuf vineyards. These stones, retain the sun’s heat during the day, reflect it back on the vines in the evening and thereby, supposedly, hasten ripening of the grapes.

Beaurenard ‘98, $26.99/24.29 and Cuvee du Vatican ‘01, $28.99/26.09, are a pair of wines that will repay their relatively modest cost with immeasurable pleasure. I have particularly enjoyed the Beaurenard.

All of these wine go well with any substantial food be it pizza or braised veal shanks.

Those of you who frequent the Madison Wine Shop know that my Californian offerings have dwindled over the last ten years - attribute that to soaring prices and sagging quality. Now, thanks to a glut of wine world-wide, Californian prices are coming down, and, no thanks to a weak dollar, imported wines prices are heading up.

The last Chateau Ste Jean wine I bought was the ‘91Cabernet Sauvignon Cinq Cepage - a great wine which we sold for $26.99. The current ‘00 vintage sells for about $80! I have no interest. But the ‘02 Chateau Ste. Jean Cabernet, California Appellation, at $16.99 grabbed my attention. Complex fruit and lovely oak pops up at various places between my lips and the back of my throat, balanced by lovely firm tannins. I like it and so will you.

Another surprise, Beckmen Vineyards ‘01 Estate Cabernet, $24.99/22.49, is from the Santa Ynez Valley near Santa Barabara. Its glorious bouquet literally jumps out of the glass, and it sings a beautiful aria on my palate. It has everything I expect from a California Cab. Great Cab fruit - complex and spicy with ample tannin and just enough oak in a long finish. Excellent value.

The Beckmen brothers, Tom and Steve, bought the Houtz winery (I had never heard of it) in Los Olivos and its Santa Inez Valley vineyard in 1994. In 1996 they purchased land on Purisma Mountain where they are growing Rhone varietals. I have not tasted any of their wines from that vineyard - they are expensive.

I was lured to Podere Poggio Salette ‘00 Il Carbonaione, a Tuscan Sangiovese, by a great write-up from a distributor, prompting me to ignore my cardinal rule - do not buy without tasting. But this is a very limited wine and I was not going to be able to taste without buying a bottle, which I did. Upon opening, I found a dark wine with the lovely bouquet of sweet oak, big, but not overpowering tannins but not much fruit. After some hours it shed some of the oak and some of the tannin, but did not gain any fruit. Perhaps it needs more time I thought. But two days later I concluded that there was no one at home - win some, lose some.

On the other hand, Chateau La Roque ‘01 Pic Saint Loup, $14.99/13.49, an old favorite from Languedoc, is a winner. Mainly, if not entirely, Syrah with an earthy nose and meaty, smoky flavors in the mouth.

Rick Lewis
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A Seminal Spanish Wine and Food Experience

Long-time customers may recall a fabulous Spanish wine tasting dinner, hosted by the Madison Wine Shop some ten years ago at Mason Galicia in Norwalk . That restaurant, now named Meigas, but still the same decor, the same impeccable service and authentic Spanish food, with the same hands-on owner Ignacia Blanco, was recently the venue for the 2004 Annual Wine Dinner sponsored by the Spanish Government to promote Spanish wine and food.- not that Spanish wine needs much promoting at the Madison Wine Shop.

I must admit to some qualms about relating this experience, my concern being that some of you might conclude that since I derive so much pleasure from my passion, I should be happy to give my wine away, if not pay you for patronizing the Madison Wine Shop. With faith in your benevolence, I’ll take that risk.
Meigas, and its sister restaurant Ibiza, in New Haven , with Juan Carlos Gonzales in charge, share the same Executive Chef, Luis Bollo. Both are considered to be among the best, if not the best, Spanish restaurants in the country.
Spanish cuisine, with its emphasis on tapas and multiple courses of small portions, is the ideal vehicle for sampling a variety of wines, and wine and food pairings. I feel that all to often too much emphasis is placed on selecting the right wine for any particular dish or sometimes even on a specific recipe for the dish, as though some authority can determine, or has determined the ideal wine for every dish. In truth, I simply try to avoid choosing the wrong wine, and that means that the wine should not obliterate the taste of the food, nor should the food overwhelm the wine. Self-education by trial and error is the best teacher. For my part, I am not looking for a long term relationship - but a one-night stand, with the possibility that I might find a food and wine combination that moves me as no other has, will suffice. I rarely imbibe wine without food.
The six-course dinner was preceded by an aperitif featuring 1+1=3, 2001 Cava from Penedes, one of the richest Cavas I have tasted., and four scrumptious tapas offerings, of which my favorites were marinated fresh anchovies on grilled melon with salmon roe and black olive tapenade, and an “other world” crispy ravioli of duck confit. I know you are curious about that 1+1=3 winery name - I am told that it is a Catalan idiom, one interpretation of which has a sexual connotation.
The dinner itself, went from one devine morsel to another starting with barely cooked sea-scallop in bed of potato foam, followed by salt baked stripped sea bass from Spain, with root vegetables, tomato, pinenuts, and smoked pimento. The latter was my dish of the evening. The 1+1=3 Xarello, served with the sea bass was, in my opinion, no match for the first wine, Jose Pariente 2002 Verdejo from Rueda, so I continued drinking it with the sea bass. This Verdejo has a glorious bouquet with just hint of Sauvignon Blanc, but in the mouth it offers stunning, subtle but distinct Verdejo fruit, bracing acidity and a finish which strikes a sublime parting note. We sell it for $17.99.
Roasted rabbit loin wrapped in bacon with grilled shrimps led off the three meat dishes. Next, was bomba rice, braised oxtail, porcini mushrooms and chick peas, in what I would have described as a fricassee; and the last was braised short ribs, cabbage stuffed with potatoes and Serrano ham with a sauce of red wine ginger and garlic confit. As a fan of oxtail, it was a foregone conclusion that that dish would be my favorite - the texture of al dente rice and peas coupled with the heavenly flavors of oxtail and mushrooms was sensational.
All three red wines, served with the meat dishes, were what we have come to expect from Spanish wines - accessiblity; balanced fruit, tannin and acidity; complexity and affordablility. I found them flawless, and of such quality that I would have happily enjoyed any of the wines with any of the three dishes.
Luna Beberide, a Cabernet, ? Mencia blend from Biezo, was, appropriately, the lighter of the three; Astrales, Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero and Barbara Fores from Terra Alta . The Barbara Fores, a notch above the others, and, in my opinion, a match for almost any wine from anywhere is available at the Madiosn Wine Shop for only?????.
I usually shun dessert, but not this time! An other-worldly concoction of something called Nevot cream cheese, sorbet, and a pastry akin to baba-au-rum, sitting between them, was irresistible. However, the two dessert wines served with dessert were the crowning finale. A Monastrell (aka Mouvredre), by Sivano Garcia from Jumilla and, hear this, a Moscatel de Turis from Valencia, in an art decco style 750 ml screw-cap bottle, that sits on our shelf with an $8.99 price tag. The Moscatel is remarkable, all the more so because of its price, but the Monastrell was indescribably delicious - I sipped it to the very last drop. Rich, almost impenetrable black fruit, balanced by a huge tannic back-bone and sharp acidity - a mere $24.99 for a 500ml bottle. My belief that dessert wines are dessert and rarely need anything more than cheese or fruit, was, to say the least, slightly shaken
Look for more about Spanish wines next time.

Rick Lewis

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