MY YEAR-END BLAST!

The eWineBulletin has been silent for several months due to an abundance of other squeaky wheels. With this issue I am making amends—letting loose with accumulated wine, and a few non-wine, issues that have been pressing to be let out.

C O N T E N T S :
Wine and/or Sublime Spirits; The Perfect Gift
The State of the Wine Business
The Fun I’m having
Obscene Restaurant Wine Prices and a Great Alternative
The Best Coffee Anywhere
More Wine Scuttlebutt

Wine and/or Sublime Spirits; The Perfect Gift

For the person who enjoys wine, what better gift? The possibilities are endless; the decisions you need to make are easy and, most important of all, you are assured that your gift is will be appreciated and enjoyed.
To make it easy to select appropriate wines, I suggest that you make a note of what you know, if anything, regarding the wine preference of each person on your list, and, if you know nothing, that should be no deterrent, because we will take the time to help you make an appropriate choice—but try not to wait 'til Christmas Eve!. Also, have an idea as to what you are comfortable spending—we will never push you to spend more.
Price is neither a good indicator of quality, nor of what an individual might enjoy—you can get wines in the $10 price range, give or take a few dollars, that will satisfy even those with “discriminating” palates. The “sweet spot” is in the $10 to $20 price range. Unless you are sure of the recipients preferences, I would suggest that you hedge your bets—three $15 bottles are a better bet than one $45 bottle, and three $30 bottles, or even six $15, are a better choice than one $90 bottle.
Unless you object, we put our label on every bottle we know is intended as a gift. We want the wine to be appreciated, and we want the recipient to know where the wine came from. It also gives the recipient the option of exchanging the wine for something he or she may prefer.
The Rick’s Pick label is your “Good Wine Seal of Approval”, and the recipient may well recognize that.
We do not offer commercial gift packages—you can do much better with a personalized selection from our extensive inventory of Rick’s Picks, and we offer a selection of attractive packaging and wrapping. We do not do baskets—they take up too much “real estate”.
If you suspect, or know, that a person is a “connoisseur”, or has a “huge” wine cellar, do not be deterred. Unless you feel comfortable doing so, I suggest that you not attempt to match or out-do what he or she already has in his cellar—we will help you pick something, perhaps off-the-beaten-track, that costs what you are comfortable spending and that will be appreciated .
We are all the targets of advertising aimed at building brands, and if you suspect that your recipient is “label conscious”, either out of habit or perception of value, you may want to weigh the choices of a recognizable brand against a well-chosen unknown label that might turn out to be an unforgettable revelation. We will help you.
Keep in mind that personal preferences are drifting away from white wines toward red, especially in the cooler seasons, and my observation is that more and more wine drinkers are rejecting those big, oaky, buttery Chardonnays.
As for aficionados of spirits—Scotch, Bourbon, Cognac, Rum and Vodka—if you know the recipients preferences, your choice is safe and easy, but we offer a selection of “sublime spirits”—sure-to-be-appreciated, obscure brands that stand above and beyond the nationally advertised competition, often costing no more and sometimes less.
Last, we have for sale, copies of a few of the wine reference books that we use every day—The Oxford Companion to Wine, $65; The World Atlas of Wine by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson, $50; and an irreverent little book that tells much of what you need to know about wine—The Wine Avenger, by Willie Gluckstein, $12.

The State of the Wine Business

Such is the state of the wine business that we do not have free trade within a state nor between states, but we have unfettered trade with China—it is nearly impossible to buy any manufactured item not Made In China.
The state of the wine business is that in just seconds I can “Google” information on virtually any topic, and virtually any wine producer, but in order to find, for example, all the California Cabernets available to me I must literally page through some 300 pages of the Connecticut Beverage Journal. The “Bev Journal” is the bible of the alcoholic beverage business in almost every state. It has not changed one iota in the 21 years I have been using it. It lists what I can buy, at what price (whether I buy 1 case or 100 cases), and the lowest price I can sell it for. If its not in the Journal, I, and you, are out of luck. If it is available in another state or another country, we are still out of luck. It's a cozy relationship between, the state and the big distributors licensed to do business in the state, and, I am sorry to say, by some of my competitors. Hate mail is on the way!
The wine industry has its roots stuck deep in the “likker” business—a dinosaur. Worse yet, the wine industry is being dominated by international conglomerates, who are interested in building brands. They have gobbled up many of the small producers who pioneered the making of fine wine in this country and in Australia. In that country about 90% of all wine is produced by four huge conglomerates—the remaining 10% comes from hundreds, if not thousands, of small producers with little marketing clout.
Until about forty years ago the wine consumer was essentially on his own in sifting through the available wines—typically by trial and error. Information was limited and suspect, until a wine media emerged, largely in the form of the Wine Spectator and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.
Initially they shed a much-needed bright light. But power corrupts. Does any rational wine consumer believe that 11,000 wines can be condensed into a list of the Year’s One Hundred Best, ranked, no less, with no if or buts, from 1 to 100.
Robert Parker has become, almost world-wide, the most powerful individual in the wine industry. To his credit he has shaken up the traditional and largely European wine industry. He accepts no advertising and presumably he accepts no favors, but he has been allowed to set himself up as the ultimate arbiter of good taste. His ability to make or break a wine producer has made him both feared and hated. He has spawned, but has no interest in, at least one consulting business devoted to counseling wine makers on how manipulate their winemaking to produce wines that Parker will rate at least 90.
You only need to read the wine ads, or the shelf talkers, to appreciate that by and large the wine industry has allowed themselves to be prostituted by WS and RP. They have become mere conduits who have abdicated their responsibility to their customers. I am sure that majority of you reading this drink and appreciate wine, not numbers.
To be sure, I’m in the business to make a living, but I would not be here if I were not having fun, as I surely am. My fun comes from finding wines from obscure, and invariably small, producers and from small and sometimes individual, importers and distributors, and to be fair there a few of large distributors who have, over the years, supported me. Without them there would be no Rick's Picks.

The Fun I’m having

Just yesterday, Iñaki, a Basque professional jai-alai player turned wine importer, and lately winemaker in Chile, came proudly into the store with a bottle of wine whose label says “Iñaki”. In the label’s background is an image of the wicker basket, called a “cesta”, that is used by the players to catch and return the goatskin-covered wound -rubber ball called a “pelota” that travels as fast as 188 miles per hour. The label tells you that the wine is Chilean, but it does not tell you that it is 47% Petit Verdot, a minor blending grape in Bordeaux, 37% Cabernet Franc and 16% Syrah.
It did not take more than a few seconds for me to realize that this was a Rick’s Pick—lovely French oak on the nose, and a gorgeous symphony of oak, fruit and tannin played in my mouth. Seamless, elegant pleasure from beginning to end. The blend, and the flavors are unique. Only once before have I had a wine with significant proportions of Petit Verdot—it was a fondly remembered Benzinger Imagery Series, 100% Petit Verdot with intense black currant fruit—no longer available—not enough consumer interest? Anyway, today Iñaki, the wine, is flying out the door at $19.99/18.99.
High drama—our stunning Mont Ferrant Rosè Cava, out of stock since August, and re-ordered in June did not make it from Spain in time for Thanksgiving, in spite of my persistent prodding of the importer. With a global wine glut this could only happen in the wine industry. The wine would never have gotten here, if not for my determination to get to the bottom of the matter. The importer, I discovered, ordered the wine but had failed to arrange for its transportation from the winery. My reward is in the joy of those who have been waiting for it, and in the smiles of pleasure from everyone who tastes it—color prejudiced Rosè-phobes included. Get yours—$16.99/15.69. Glorious bouquet, bone dry with bright acidity and the most exquisite straw-berry/raspberry fruit. Enjoy with or without food and even when its flat and warm—my ultimate test of any sparkling wine. What makes it so appealing? In part, the grape from which it is made—Monastrell a.k.a. Mourvedre.
I picked Concannon’s ‘03 Syrah as my best California Syrah value at $11.99/10.79, and as good as any Californian Syrah I have tasted recently, although I admit to not having tasted a number of pricey offerings. I bought every case I could get and it is selling like hot cakes. We have already consumed the better part of a case here at home. One of the few reviewers I have relied on for many years, Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wine, in their December Issue panned the wine. I conclude that in the matter of Syrah and also, I suspect in the case of Pinot Noir, our standards differ widely. That is part of the fun I’m having.
The Concannon ‘03 will be gone by Christmas. Look for the ‘04 next spring—if it rates a Rick’s Pick. Meanwhile, here are some other Syrahs to tide you over.
Dig deep for Poggio Al Sole ‘03 Syrah, $39.99/35.99. By far the best Italian Syrah I have tasted, which might not count for much because there are not many. But this is world-class. It comes from a top Tuscan winemaker—elegant, beautifully balanced with a personality all of its own, but still, without doubt, Syrah!
That northern Rhone knock-off, Porcupine Ridge ‘03 Syrah $11.99/10.79, from South Africa is remarkable. Remember to finish the bottle the day you open it—by next day those great flavors will have faded.
Last but not least, Ch de Lancyre ‘01 Vieilles Vignes, “Pic Saint-Loup”, Coteaux du Languedoc, $19.99/17.99 is sensational, and the regular Ch de Lancyre ‘01 “Pic Saint-Loup”, $13.99/12.59 is a steal.

Obscene Restaurant Wine Prices and a Great Alternative

I sense a conspiracy. Not long ago restaurants were cautiously pushing against the $30 entré ceiling. All of sudden this year it seems that every moderate to up-scale restaurant has only token offers of under-$30 wines and the choices are often abysmal—I won’t drink most of them. Who buys those $60 wines to say nothing of the three and four hundred “bargains”? A not-to-be-named New Haven restaurant offers a wine for $45—it cost him $11 and sells at retail for about $18.
A solution—the Madison Bistro. Just steps from our back door offers terrific, prepared-to-order Mediterranean dishes, in a cozy intimate setting—out-doors in fine weather. Bring your own wine—no corkage. Have dinner for two for about $40—not including your wine. I have enjoyed the best spaghetti carbonara since we lived in Italy, and a superb Provencal-style steak.
For twenty years we closed the store at 8pm and walking out to a desolate, deserted downtown—we now hear voices and music and we see people—the Madison Bistro is best thing that has happened to Madison in 20 years.

The Best Coffee Anywhere

Just a few steps for our front door, at Willoughby’s, you will find what they call “Serious Coffee” either in a cup or in the form of freshly roasted beans, and what I call The Best Coffee Anywhere. About 18 years ago I became a fan of Sumatra Mendehling French Roast, and it has been our house coffee ever since. I keep the whole beans in the freezer, grind them fresh as needed, and I use a French Press coffee pot. They have a huge selection of beans, but this is my favorite. They put the “evil empire” to shame. So within a stone’s throw in downtown Madison you can get great food, great wine and great coffee.
You can also buy Willoughby’s Coffee on line at http://www.willoughbyscoffee.com. Receive a 10% Discount on your web order. During checkout enter coupon code RICKS-01205 and press ”redeem coupon”. Valid through 2-28-05.

More Wine Scuttlebutt

For some time now the Californian wine buzz-word has been “hangtime”. Google offered me hundreds of references to “hangtime” in basket ball; a reference to a Californian winery named Hang Time, and this single definition “Hangtime philosophy is to ensure that the flavors of the grapes reveal themselves boldly in the wine. That can only occur through a long "hangtime" in the vineyards, which concentrates the flavors in the grapes, and thoughtful winemaking, in which the flavors of the grapes are given priority.” The “flavors of the grapes” are usually referred to as fruit.
I declined to shell out $295 for a copy of Wine Opinions’ “groundbreaking report focusing on the attitudes and taste preferences of U.S. core wine consumers relating to wine styles resulting from extended hangtime.”
For several years I have heard California winemakers extolling the virtues of hangtime, but I never gave it much thought until I read a recent Economist article on the subject—yes there’s money involved. Typically, the Economist article is long and exhaustive, but I will try to paraphrase it, adding some of my own comments, hopefully without losing your interest.
The ripening of grapes on the vine involves the conversion of acid into sugar. In northern climates, with short growing seasons, there are vintages in which lack of sunshine results in low sugar levels in the grape and low alcohol levels in the finished wine, which may be acidic and lacking in fruit. Low alcohol, but not lack of fruit, can be rectified, by adding sugar to the fermenting grape juice. Chaptalization, as it is called, is outlawed in many European appellations; The German system of grading wine—Kabinet, Spaetlese, Auslese, Berenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese—is based the sugar level at harvest, not on the sugar level in the finished wine. Their alcohol levels are often in the 9 to 10% range with some residual sugar in the finished wine. The Kabinets are light and easy drinking.
Most wines are in the 11 to 13% range of alcohol level. Back in the seventies it was popular to produce Zinfandels with 16% alcohol, a feat that requires some winemaking wizardry, because, depending on temperature, most strains of yeast quit working at alcohol levels around. 15%—known in the trade as a “stuck” fermentation.
Longer hangtime results in higher sugars levels, in part because more acid is converted into sugar, and in part, because, in the absence of rain, the grapes will loose water. Perhaps the flavor and fruit levels are increased, but it has always been my understanding that fruit comes from thicker skins and adequate maceration—intimate contact of fermenting juice and skins—during fermentation.
But the Economist's article implies that money, perhaps more than claimed wine quality enhancement, is involved. Californian wine regulations limit the “watering back” of wine (note they don’t say “watering down”) to certain circumstances, one of them being stuck fermentation, caused, as noted above, by high alcohol levels. Water, by reducing the alcohol level will unstick the fermentation—and will be sold as wine!
One might be tempted to say “so what, there is a glut of wine”, but we are talking about
wine that acquires much of its perceived value from a particular place, the name of which is on the label.
Not really addressed by the Economist is that in recent years, alcohol levels of Californian wines have been climbing, often hitting 16%, no doubt adding appeal to those consumers who seek what they call “full-bodied” wines. Alcohol is tasteless—tannin is often mistaken for alcohol—but higher levels of alcohol give the wine a heavier “mouthfeel”, and of course you feel the effects of the higher alcohol level. The higher alcohol levels tend to make the wines—especially Chardonnay—heavy and clumsy as opposed to light and elegant.
The article concludes by condemning the standardization of taste and the loss of individualism. “As giant corporations buy up one winemaker after another ... what happens if one Cabernet tastes much the same as another, what happens if giant winemankers, imposing standardized methods of production, put consistency ahead of taste”. But the Economist misses the point with “if”—these consequences have already come to pass.
The article concludes, “And yet never has the world been under such threat from the forces of homogenization. That, one would have thought was a much greater threat than watering back”
Also not addressed by the Economist, but of concern to me, is that higher sugar levels imply lower acid levels—when it comes to wine I am known to be an acid freak—wine without adequate acid is grape juice, and it fades fast!

Happy Holidays,

Rick Lewis

Visit madisonwineshop.com | Questions or comments? Email info@madisonwineshop.com

Let's Eat Out!

No Ranting this time around—only Raves. Something great has happened to Madison. For twenty years we have closed the store at 8 pm in a desolate, deserted downtown. Now, every night, there is life, laughter, and sometimes music, coming from the Madison Bistro outside our backdoor.
The Bistro joins two other restaurants that have long been favorites of ours and these three eateries were the topic of a recent column in the Shoreline Times which I am, with permission, reprinting in toto.

Quote

A Tale of Three Bistros

By Angela Lehman
Special to Out & About
It’s hard to believe but Chester’s Restaurant du Village is 25 years old. Consistently, for all these years, the first 10 of them under the founders Priscilla Martel and Charlie van Over and the subsequent 15 under the current owner/chefs Cynthia and Michel Keller, the food and ambiance has secured the intimate village bistro a ‘best restaurant’ appellation not just in Connecticut, not just in New England, but literally anywhere you might care to travel.
For their 25 th anniversary, the Kellers are offering a celebration $25 prix fixe menu on Sunday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. The 3-course menu will change nightly and feature Parisian style bistro classics such as onion soup, salad Lyonnaise, steak au poivre, blanquette de veau and crème caramel. Each ‘plat du jour’ is made daily and could run out, so it’s best to call ahead to see what might be available, just in case it might be something you don’t fancy. This special will continue during the summer but is not available on Saturday or holidays. The Restaurant du Village, closed on Monday and Tuesday, is located at 59 Main Street in Chester, call 860-526-5301.
Café Routier, the Yankee Bistro in Westbrook, is running a Brazilian regional menu along with the popular seasonal and specialties menus. Chef Jeff Renkl changes the regional offerings every few months. The Brazilian offerings include three starters ­ Piri-Piri shrimp marinated and grilled in a mango dipping sauce; Bolinhas de Milho ­ corn fritters in a coconut-lime dipping sauce and a salad of mango, hearts of palm and tomatoes in a lemon-cilantro vinaigrette ($8/9). Three entrees are Galinha Assada com Farofa ­ roast chicken with farofa stuffing, sautéed kale and a black bean sauce; Moqueca de Peixe, a Bahia style fish stew with coconut Basmati rice and Churrasco-style grilled hangar steak with yucca fries, sautéed spinach and chili-lime chimichurri ($22/25). Café Routier is open daily from 5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m., until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday at 1353 Boston Post Road, (860) 399-8700.
At the Madison Bistro, Chef Andrea Panno has teamed up with his neighbor Rick of Rick’s Picks fame to pair wines from the Madison Wine Shop with his dinner specials. Rick says “order your lunch or dinner and then stroll across the Courtyard and choose a Rick’s Pick wine to go with it.” As the Wine Shop closes at 8 p.m., if you are going to be late, a call to 800-899-rickpick or email to rick@rickspicks.com can secure a bottle by credit card to be left for you at the Bistro. Madison Bistro, which is a BYOB establishment, does not charge a corkage fee and provides glasses and cork pulling expertise. Current dinner specials include a starter of scallops over spinach in a wine lemon sauce ($11.95); entrees of fettucine Campagnola with asparagus, chicken, garlic and pesto ($12.95) and chicken rollatini with Prosciutto, smoked Mozzarella and served with fresh vegetables ($14.95). Chef Andrea advises that patrons should be prepared to wait an extra five minutes for their dishes as all meals are prepared from scratch. Sitting in the Courtyard on a warm summer evening with a glass of Rick’s favorite Cour-Cheverny ’00 ($14.99 per bottle) that can’t be too hard! Plus there is romantic live music outside on Friday and Saturday nights. Open daily from 9 a.m. for fresh coffee, cappuccino and latte plus breakfast wraps, until 9 p.m., until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.
In the NewAlliance Courtyard at 724 Boston Post Road (203) 245-4771 or 1597.
We welcome your restaurant news. Please send information by fax to 203-245-9437
or by email to outandabout@ctcentral.com.

End Quote
Reprinted from Shore Line Newspapers 8/24/05

Rick Lewis
Visit madisonwineshop.com | Questions or comments? Email info@madisonwineshop.com

A Week in the Life of a Happy Wine Pedlar

I am a Most Happy Fella - four, and often seven, days a week, I am having fun doing things I enjoy. This past week I talked to, and tasted wine with, scores of interesting people - my customers. I learn from them and share with them my passion for wine..

And then, I talk to wine people - sales people, importers and winemakers - in the store and frequently at trade tastings. This past week I probably tasted 40 wines, most of them not very inspiring, but I found some gems that I cannot wait to share with you. So here we go.
Baumard ‘00 “Trie Speciale” Savennieres is possibly one of the most sublime white wines I have ever tasted, but before I tell you about it, I should tell you about Savennieres.
Savennieres is a tiny appellation on the north bank of the Loire, south-west of the town of Angers, not far from the Atlantic. Total production in a good year is about 30,000 cases. Elsewhere, that would be the output of a small- to moderate-size winery. The grape is the Loire’s magical, ubiquitous Chenin Blanc, but here the slate and sandstone soil, and the climate, make it different. Yields, by law, are extremely low, but the inhospitable soil and climate, which gives the wine its remarkable character, limits the yield anyway - the cause of many growers abandoning the struggle to make a living, and the reason for the dwindling output of Savennieres.
The average wine drinker has not heard of Savennieres, and may never, but among a small international band of devotees, it is legendary. Bone dry and sharply acidic (now you know why I am a fan), it will live, no thrive, for 20 - 30 years, getting better as it ages. Roche Aux Moines and Coulee de Serrant, are the two Savennieres sub-appellations whose wines are especially sought after. We have several vintages of the Joly’s Coulee de Serrant, which I recommended very highly.
Now, let me tell you about the Baumard ‘00 “Trie Especiale”. Domaine des Baumard is neither in Coulee de Serrant nor Roche Aux Moines, but, in my opinion, the ‘00 “Trie Special” stands above any Savennieres that I have tasted. The “Trie Speciale” designation is reserved by the producer for exceptional vintages. The bouquet is botrytis - the “Noble Rot” of Sauternes - but remember, this wine is bone dry. The flavor too is botrytis, but mingled with the rich opulence and complexity of which Chenin Blanc is capable, as in the sweet wine of Coteaux du Lyon and Quarts de Chaume. The icing on the cake, underlying it all, is bright glowing acidity. Truly a feast for the palate.
What would you have it with? - any seafood, the richer the better, fruit, cheese, perhaps foie gras, or simply nothing. When should you open it? - any time between now and 2030. Who would you have it with? Only someone special?
We will be tasting Baumard ‘00 “Trie Speciale” starting at noon on Saturday September 3 (Labor Day Weekend). I’m betting that you will be tempted to pay me $49.99/44.99 a bottle. Come early!.
Family dynasties abound in Burgundy. Sometimes the connection is only in the name, so it behooves you to know which member or branch you are dealing with. I was un-familiar with the wines of Bernard Moreau until I tasted his ‘ 03 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieille Vignes - an Estate Bottled red, not that appellation’s usual white. What a happy surprise! From the bouquet to the lovely finish, it is all I hope and ask for. Light, lively and loaded with bright Pinot fruit. You could spend much more than $34.99/31.49 and get much less.
The same salesman offered me Domaine Cheysson ‘04 Chiroubles, one of the ten “Cru” Beauojolais - the very best that the appellation has to offer and only $15.99/14.39. I have not had a Chiroubles in the store in ages, but this one I could not resist - from its stunning bouquet to typical Chiroubles light, bright, fresh raspberry/strawberry fruit. If the Nouveau hype and rip-off have turned you off of the appellation, reconsider. The same Gamay grape, in regular Beaujolais, and Beaulolais Village, with good fruit and acid balance can be a treat, while in the Crus, it is often indistinguishable from the Pinot Noir of Burgundy.
Alsatian wines - despite the shape of the bottle and the Germanic names of many of the producers - are not German (not any more) and, unless labeled “Vendange Tardive”, (late harvest) they are not sweet. They are my kind of wines - not lacking in acidity, and invariably, totally lacking in oak. They age beautifully and are wonderful with food. Gewurztraminer (“Gewurz” for short) is the most common varietal, followed by Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Blanc and occasionally Pinot Noir. I look for Muscat, but rarely find it.
This same week, I picked up (‘grabbed’ would be more accurate) two Alsatian wines from Domaine Michel Fonne - the ‘03 Pinot Gris, $15.99/14.39, and ‘03 Pinto Blanc, $11.99/10.79, both from the renowned Bennwihr vineyard - two very different wines that go wonderfully with food. The Pinot Gris is rich, complex and mouth-filling - almost unctuous - loved by everyone. Pinot Blanc, I have always thought of as being “shy” - low-key when it first hits your palate requiring you to coax it. When you do, the lovely bright fruit emerges reluctantly - your patience is rewarded.
Who would have thought that a Rosé sparkling wine would have moved me and everyone who has since tasted it? Renardt-Fache’s ‘04 Bugey Cerdon comes from the appellation of that name, in the Jura foothills to the east of Beaujolais. The label says “Methode Ancestral - demi-sec, pétillant par fermentation spontanée” - off-dry, slightly sparkling, by spontaneous fermentation. My wine authority calls it a particular speciality among a disparate collection of grape varieties, wine styles and terroirs, most of which are consumed locally. With light food, there’s joy aplenty in this bottle!
Three, uncommon Reds, two Italian and one Spanish were the harvest of yet another day.
From Tenuta Montebello in Piedmont, Per Marco ‘03 Barbera del Monferrato Superiore is one of those joyous minglings of old-world and new-world styles that has kept the best of both - a tannic backbone and lovely complex varietal fruit that does not quit. $19,99.17.99
Poggio al Sole is a Chianti producer who has, happily, strayed far from his roots with his ‘03 Syrah. If it were a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 15% Syrah it could be labeled Chianti, but this 100% Syrah could not. Hence the back label says “Toscana IGT”. They are doing good things with Syrah in Sicilly, but not consistently, and the few Tuscan Syrahs I have tasted did not impress me. This one does. It follows neither the classic Northern Rhone style nor the oaky, fruity new-world style. It is elegant, but unmistakably Syrah. Not inexpensive at $39.99/35.99, but I bought it!
The French grape Mourvedre hides, unknown and unloved in many southern French reds, to which it imparts tannin and dark, spicy fruit. The wines of Bandol are entirely Mourverdre, and most of them are undrinkable until the lovely bouquet and black fruit flavors emerge from the depths of the tannins - sometimes as long as five years after the vintage.
Monastrell, the Spanish name for Mourvedre, has long been cultivated in the south, around Jumilla, but only recently has the grape’s potential been exploited. Whether due to soil, climate, winemaking or, a clonal variation, Monastrell from Jumila is unlike Mourvredre from Bandol. Typical Monastrell, offers immediate gratification in its youth - vibrant, intense, ripe black fruit, ample tannin and, not as apparent, high acidity, which not only enhances your enjoyment in a subtle way, but helps to stabilize the wine especially once the bottle has been opened..
Juan Gil ‘03 Jumilla, $17.99/16.19, is 100% Monastrell, and what I describe as an elegant wine, meaning that it is low-key and complex, with fruit, tannin and acid in perfect balance, getting my attention by stealth rather than by force. I love it! I bought it!
And finally, another “experience” of this particular week. On Thursday I tasted a Bordeaux Superieur, which shall be nameless . It was fabulous! Exquisite, spicy nose. Wonderful, complex fruit, lovely tannins and great length. It would have to sell for $33 - outrageous for a Bordeaux Superieur, but my reaction was “This beats, hands down, most fifty or even one hundred dollar wines from anywhere”. The next day my order was delivered and I immediately opened a bottle and sold six bottles between 4pm and 7pm.
On Saturday, we continued tasting from the same bottle, opened 18 hours earlier. Noticing that no one had made any comment I took a taste - Bouquet gone! Fruit gone! Only tannin left. I was flabbergasted! Opened a second bottle - it was great, but six hours later it too had faded.
The wine is not for me. Sent an email to the supplier, relating my experience and telling him that I wished to return the wine. A message came back that he was sure that he wine went flat because the severe storms we had on the Friday night were accompanied by low barometric pressure, a phenomena he had experienced before. I have heard many wine myths, but for sheer inventiveness, this takes the cake. This myth can be destroyed by simply pointing out that the pressure in any unopened bottle of wine is unlikely to be at ambient atmospheric pressure.
The wine’s flaw is probably low acidity.
This incident puts the spotlight on my aversion to those numeric wine ratings and raises an interesting question “how many times, and over what period of time after opening it, did the reviewer taste that bottle of wine in arriving at his rating?” Once exposed to the air wine changes - some wines change slowly, some rapidly, some improve initially, some do not, all are eventually destroyed by oxygen. Beware of those numbers!
Rick Lewis
Visit madisonwineshop.com | Questions or comments? Email info@madisonwineshop.com

What is Lighter than Red, Brighter than White and is Un-Oaked?

Why, Rosé of course! Dry Rosé offers a whole new dimension to wine, neither red nor white, with endless variation depending on varietals and styles. They are especially enjoyable in the summer, and, at any season, with light meals like Sunday brunch. Forget about those sweet cotton-candy blush wines that started so many of us on the way to enjoying wine, but then planted the seeds of color prejudice. There are still some of those around, but there are many dry Rosés, ranging from pale, delicate, light wines that trip across the palate and make that Sunday brunch with smoked white fish, or salmon memorable, to bold versions that are miraculous with the likes of barbequed steak or lamb on a hot summer day. But I’m not finished - how about sparkling Rosé that covers all the bases, including your Thanksgiving turkey dinner?
One blessing of Rosé - the almost complete absence of what has been called MSG for wine, namely oak. Also, because, with few exceptions, most Rosé wine labels are silent regarding the grapes used to make the wine, I must disclaim the accuracy of any mention of grape varietals - my sources are known to be unreliable.
This year, for the first time, the Bordelaise have hopped on the Rosé bandwagon - among them Chateau Pichon Lalande - my favorite Paulliac producer, and Chateau Pavie, a Grand Gru St Emillion. This is as much a sign that Rosé is now legitimate as it is a sign of the tough times in the French wine business - too much wine and a weak dollar. Both the Pichon Lalande “Rosé des Tourelles” ‘04, $14.99/13.49, and the Chateau Pavie “La Rosee de Pavie” ‘04, $15.99/14.39, are Estate Bottled, beautifully focused wines that will enhance any light food. Do not make them super cold - my preference - about 65 degrees F.
Another new-comer, this from Tuscany, is Rignana ‘03 Rosato, which I am told is 100% Canaiolo. Until about four years ago, when the traditional Chianti rules were relaxed, Canaiolo was an incognito stowaway in every bottle labeled “Chianti”. This is the first straight Canaiolo wine I have ever tasted - and is it ever different - unlike anything I have ever experienced. The color is unique - dark bronze. It has tannin - enough to accompany beef off the barbeque, and the flavor is extraordinary, both the fruit and the tang are subtlety but distinctly cranberry. This eye-popping experience will cost you about $13.99/12.59 - and you’ll be back for more.
I have always had a preference for sparkling wines, Champagne included, that are made of red-skinned grapes, most notably Pinot Noir. The Blanc de Noir versions are made with no skin contact so that the wine is white. Depending upon the length of skin contact with the fermenting juice, Rosé sparkling wines range in color from the palest salmon to nearly deep red. I love them. They usually have more character than the Blanc de Blancs, which brings me to another personal peeve.
In my humble personal opinion, too many sparkling wines, Champagne included, are made using wine of mediocre, if not inferior quality, disguised by the “bubbles” and the cold temperature at which they invariably consumed. Try this! Leave your sparkling wine in the glass until it is flat and at room temperature. Would you then drink it?

I unintentionally did this with a stunning Rosé Cava (Spanish sparkling wine) from Mont Ferrant that we offered at a recent Saturday Tasting. Five days later, before tossing out the half-empty, stoppered bottle that had been left on the tasting table, I tasted it. It was delicious! Virtually everyone who tasted that flat, room temperature Rosé, bought a bottle or more. Mont Ferrant Rosé Cava has a lovely pink color; has a sensuous bouquet, lovely delicate fruit, no detectable residual sugar and a long, bright crisp finish. Who can ask for more for $14.99/13.49? What grapes? I’m not sure. Keep it in mind for Thanksgiving.
You can find dry Rosés, made of many grape varietals, from almost any wine producing area of the world. If you are a Cabernet Sauvignon fan, I can recommend Snoqualmie ‘03 “Cirque de Rose” from Washington State. It is relatively dark in color, with exuberant Cabinet fruit that may lead you to think it is sweet, but your taste buds are playing tricks - it is bone dry - and it makes me wonder why so many regular Cabs are obliterated with oak.. “Cirque de Rosé” slightly chilled will go with anything you want to barbeque, for only $8.99/8.09.
From the Penedes region of Spain, the peculiarly named “1 + 1 = 3" winery offers a delicious ‘03 Cabernet Rosé that is not quite as fruity. It sells for about $16.99/15.29. I am told that the winery name is an idiomatic Catalan expression having to do with sex!
The inhospitable region of Priorat in north-eastern Spain, while it taxes human fortitude, brings forth the ultimate expression of those varietals that can survive its harsh soil and climate. A young woman, Sylvia Puig, is the artisan who produced the minuscule vintage of Odysseus ‘04 Rosado, an incredibly complex wine made entirely of Grenache - worth every penny of its $20.99/18.89 price.
Syrah makes great Rosé - Vina Robles ‘04 “Roseum”, from Paso Robles, California, $17.99/16,19, and , for $14.99/13.49, Mourgues du Gres ‘03 “Les Galets”, from Nimes in the south of France, show two of the many faces of my favorite varietal. The Californian offers more fruit; the French has less fruit and more spice - both will go well with your barbequed beef or lamb.
All said and done, southern French Rosés remain the most sought after, perhaps because of the wide selection and great variety. Many of them are made from unspecified varietals, and guessing what they might be can be fun. A classic Provencal Rosé is Bargemone ‘03, and my guess, both from the orange/bronze color and the zesty finish, is that it has more than a smidgin of Mourvedre. For $13.99/12.59 you can be transported to a Provencal country restaurant on a warm summer day.
I suspect that Lancyre ‘03 Rose, $12.99/11.69, from Languedoc’s Pic St. Loup is largely Syrah and Grenache, while the $9.99/8.99, Massamier La Mignarde ‘04, appears to have no Syrah, but may have some Cinsault. Both are delightful.
Villerambert ‘04 from Minervois, one of the leading appellations in Languedoc, is richly flavored - I suspect Syrah, Grenache and perhaps either Cinsault or Carignan - continues, at $10.99/9.89, to be a best-seller.
Provenza ‘03 Chiaretto, from Italy’s Lombardy, is surprisingly the most subtle of all my current Rosés. I say surprisingly because of the cepage - Sangiovese, Barbera, Marzema, and Groppello. This delicate, but complex wine can be had for $12.99/11.69.
Pinot Noir makes wonderful Rosé, particularly from Sancerre in the Loire, but there is no still Rosé currently available. Instead, try Jean Laurent Brut Rosé Champagne, with or without food - you will be surprised, delighted and satisfied that you got your $39.99/35.99's worth.
Rick Lewis
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The Wallflower Wine Beats the Belle of the Ball - Every Time

I have said it before, I’ll say it again and I’ll probably continue saying it - if my only choices were Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay, I’d choose Sauvignon Blanc every time.
Yes, there are disgusting examples, and, depending upon your taste, exquisite samples of wine made from both grapes. But for diversity and the excitement of the unexpected that makes wine so much fun, give me Sauvignon Blanc. Its wines can be found in an endless variety of styles - in-your-face tropical-fruit cocktail with a “locker-room” bouquet, which I can do without; barrel-fermented, barrel-aged in the style of New World Chardonnay, some of which are great; wines that have varying intensity of citrus fruit with good acidity and moderate levels of oak, typical of New Zealand expressions of the grape; and then there are wines that have great acidity, with austere, minerally fruit and no detectable oak - I think of them as “vertical” wines that go razor-sharp down the middle of my palate without ever touching the sides of my mouth. In addition, there are often big stylistic differences within appellations and regions, depending on soil, climate and the hand of the wine-grower.
This outburst of passion has been occasioned by Chateau de la Presle’s Touraine 2000 Vieilles Vignes which swept me off my feet less than an hour ago. I knew from the Touraine appellation that it would be predominantly Sauvignon Blanc, but in a blind tasting I’d never have guessed it. I’d have opted for a Grand Cru White Burgundy which would have implied Chardonnay (although there are rare White Burgundies made of Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Gris), but certainly not the Chardonnay we expect from the New World. This extraordinary wine is elegant and subtle, with exquisite fruit and perfectly balanced acid. A mere hint of oak - I am told that 25% was aged in new oak, 25% in old, often called ‘neutral’, barrels that serve as a porous container, allowing passage of air, and 50% in stainless steel. The Vieilles Vignes, meaning “old vines”,on the label is often mere window dressing, but in this case it may in part account for the wine’s complexity and lingering, other-world appeal. So what does it taste like? Sorry - aside from a delicious, hauntingly citrus-like note in mid-palate, I do not have the words, but I am transported ! I am looking forward to enjoying it with all kinds of light dishes especially seafood. You’ll not regret shelling out $28.99/26.09.
Keep in mind that, like many Old World wines, the Chateau de la Presle label says nothing regarding the grapes that went into the wine. I am assured that it is 100% Sauvignon Blanc, although Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay are allowed in the wines of Touraine, a Loire Valley appellation. Another Touraine example on our shelves, Domaine Deletang, 2002 “Cepage Sauvignon”, has an intriguing bouquet with hints of citrus. The fruit is sharply focused, but low-key and, unlike the Ch de la Presle, unmistakably Sauvignon. Enjoy with seafood or chicken - $13.99/12.59

Reuilly (pronounced “rwoo-ee”) is also a Loire Valley appellation and is always 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Claude Lafond’s Clos Fussay ‘03 Reuilly is typical of the appellation and poles apart from Chateau Presle’s Touraine. The Reully is intense, with grassy, citrus bouquet and fruit, and loads of acidity. By the way, that wine tasting descriptor, “grassy”, covers a multitude of vinous olfactory sensations, most frequently encountered in Sauvignon Blanc, the more pleasant of which are the smell of new-mown hay or grass and variations thereof, progressing to what is often referred to as “cat-pee”, or by me, as “locker-room”. I suspect that soil and more likely, climate are responsible for this characteristic. The grassiness of Lafond’s Reuilly is a true delight, especially with stronger flavored foods - $14.99/13.49 .

At their best, the Loire appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume offer wines that are of the razor-sharp, austere and minerally versions of Sauvignon Blanc - Domaine Cailbourdin ‘02 Pouilly-Fume “Les Cris”, $24.99/22.49, in this style, is out of this world with any seafood - so bright, tangy and clean.

The Sauvignon Blancs of New Zealand, especially those from Marlborough, are a reflection of the climate. Marlborough is a flat valley, bounded on the north, west and south by mountains and open to the Pacific to the east. Hot during the day, but cooled by a brisk sea breeze which blows in every evening before sunset. My current favorite is Monkey Bay ‘04- bright, vibrant, yet restrained tropical fruit and only $9.99/8.99 I was told, when we visited New Zealand that the labeling laws are quite straight forward - what ever appears on the label must be true, and my interpretation of this label is that it is a negotiant wine, the producer is anonymous and the Monkey Bay is a company in Woodbridge, California. But I quibble.

Tasman Bay ‘04 from Nelson on the western side, at the extreme north of New Zealand’s South Island is yet another manifestation of Sauvignon Blanc - light and crisp with an extremely delicate, perfumey and floral bouquet, that repeats on the palate. Stunningly unique - superb with delicate seafood the likes of sole or flounder. $15.99/14.59

There are many good South American reds, and many are exceptional values, but acceptable whites are few and far between. Manta ‘04 Sauvignon Blanc from the Central Valley of Chile is one of the few. It is delightfully fresh, and crisp with hints of tropical fruit. Unfortunately, the wine has a problem- its price. At $6.99/6.29, it is shunned and must be sold on bended knee!

Boschendal Grande Cuvee Sauvignon Blanc, has been on our shelves longer than any other South African wine. It is unique. Barrel fermented, but in a style that avoids the excessive oak that overpowers many New World, so-called “buttery”, Chardonnays. Like its predecessors, the ‘04 vintage strikes a perfect balance between the soft, almost sweet, oak; the rich Sauvignon fruit; and the creamy vanilla contributed by the secondary, malolactic, fermentation. It goes with many dishes, where its weight and texture offer an alternative to red wine. Excellent value at $16.99/15.29

The dominant grape varietals in white Bordeaux wines are Sauvignon Blanc, and Semillon, sometimes alone and sometimes together. The label will invariably tell you nothing. You can usually distinguish between the two when comparing wines each of which is predominantly one varietal. The Semillon is usually richer and fuller (it is the grape of Sauternes). Muscadelle is often another unheralded component of white Bordeaux. The only thing you can be sure of is that it is never Chardonnay, in whole or in part. I recommend Ch Menaut ‘03, a white Graves which is 100% Sauvignon (it says so on the labels, both back and front). Beautifully rich and round and only $11.99/10.89. Another recommendation would be Chateau de Castelneau ‘03 Entre-Deaux-Mers, Its label says, (my approximate translation) “the blend has the vivacity of Sauvignon, the fullness of Semillon and the fruit of Muscadelle”. I second that in spades. And only $9.99/8.99.

Rick Lewis

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Chateau Ste Michelle & Washington State - Take a Bow!

The Best Chardonnay Values in the Store

You are not going to believe this - I have found not one but two domestic Chardonnays that I love and can afford. Both are stunning, 2001 Chateau Ste Michelle, single-vineyard wines from the Columbia Valley of Washington State. Both are priced at a remarkable $16.99/15.29, but there the similarity ends. To the sense of taste and smell, they are remarkably different. I would be hard-pressed to choose between them - and I did not. I bought both, leaving the choice up to you. Either way you are going to be very happy.
The Cold Creek Vineyard '01 Reserve Chardonnay is a stunning new-world style wine. Barrel fermented in new French oak, followed by malolactic fermentation, and aged on the lees for 11 months. The bouquet is quite sensational, a rich mouthfeel, with lovely restrained fruit, hints of vanilla from the malo fermentation, all framed in stunningly restrained oak. You need only one sip, perhaps only one sniff to understand why I, and many of you, are turned off by so many Chards that are heavy and dominated by harsh, bitter wood flavors. What kind of palate do the people who make these wines have? What in the world are they using? Might it be wood extract?
You can enjoy and savor Cold Creek Chard on its own, but it makes a banquet out of any but the lightest of seafood, any white meat dish, even pasta (but no tomato sauce!).
The Canoe RidgeVineyard '01 Reserve Chardonnay is very different wine - lighter on the palate, less fruity, less oaky and brighter with a more acidic backbone. Distinctly old-world style - food wine. Surprisingly, it too, was barrel fermented in new French oak and aged on the lees for 10 months. How to explain the dramatic difference between these two wines? I do not understand why the oak in this wine is so much more subtle than in the Cold Creek. Soil, exposure, climate and particularly temperature no doubt account for the differences in fruit and acid. The Canoe Ridge Vineyard climate is the cooler of the two, but one might wonder if the winemaker, either deliberately or otherwise, had something to do with the dramatic difference in bouquet, taste and mouthfeel. I e-mailed the winemaker and asked the question. For those of you who are interested, Bob.Bertheau's answers (there are two of them), appear as foot-notes to this column. They make very interesting reading.
Regardless, both are exciting world-class wines - Rick's Picks at a bargain price. At a Saturday tasting they were a huge hit. Surprisingly, the old-world Canoe Ridge, outsold the new-world Cold Creek about 3-to-1, reflecting the fact that, at least at the Madison Wine Shop, oak is out.
I urge you to buy a bottle of each, take them home and have a ball making your own comparison. Above all drink them no colder than 65 degrees, even room temperature. Let me know your reaction.
An Old Washington State Favorite is Back
Almost exactly four years ago I tasted and flipped over Snoqualmie '98 Cabernet Sauvignon. We bought every case we could get and over the next two years it was our best-selling domestic wine. Snoqualmie, like Columbia Crest, is a Chateau Ste Michelle property with its own vineyards, winery and winemaker, Joy Anderson.
When the "chocolate" wine, as many customers still call the '98 Cab, ran out, as all vintages inevitably do, we tried the '99 vintage and passed. So Snoqualmie disappeared from our shelves - until two weeks ago when I tasted the Snoqualmie '01 Rosebud Vineyard Cab. It is lovely and rich right off the cork, but aerate it, and, after a short while, wonderful cocoa/chocolate bouquet and flavor notes begin to evolve. The wine is reminiscent of its '98 predecessor - unique. It stands out from the legions of look-alike Cabs. Complex, balanced, and unfailing in its ability to offer joy from the first drop out of the bottle to the very last drop in the glass. Yours for $17.99/16.79.
The Snoqualmie Rosebud Vineyard is on the northern reaches of the Columbia River, on the Wahkuke Slope, one of the warmest areas in the Columbia Valley. One thinks of Washington State as northern, wet and cool - but the Cascade Mountains intervene, trapping the moisture on the western slope, leaving the eastern slope a desert - hot during the day and cool at night with plenty of sunshine. That is Syrah climate and its coming! Stay tuned.
One last word about these wines - they are the product of a giant corporation, that could be counted as part of what I call the expanding, evil empire, but they are not! The giants in the business are growing fewer and bigger, focused on building "brands", volume, and their bottom line. Passionate wine making is the province of the small winegrower. They are being squeezed by the mass-marketers and their numbers are dwindling. I understand that 90% of all Australian wine, becoming evermore homogenized, is made by four huge conglomerates, with the remaining 10% coming from some 800 or more small producers.
Over the years Chateau Ste-Michelle's pricing has been restrained and their quality overall has been maintained if not improved - of course not every wine in every vintage. Chateau Ste Michelle's '93 Cold Creek Cab Franc was our greatest Washington State hit. When our inventory ran out in 1999 we enquired about a new vintage and were informed that there would be no more straight Cab Franc - it was all being blended. We screamed bloody murder! They heard the screams and found 25 cases of the '93 at the winery, which they sold to us in 2000 for the same price we paid in 1995. We have just 30 bottles remaining, at the original price $27.99/25/19.
While they do have a few entries into the so-called super premium category, Chateau Ste Michelle did not succumb to the madness that has beset so many domestic producers. I get the impression that here is a conglomerate that has given its winemaking arm free reign and a mandate to make quality wine in every price bracket at a fair profit. They always have made a significant effort to educate their distributors and any retailer who wishes to participate. They are building their brands on the basis of quality and value, not hype. I support them.
Rick Lewis
Scroll down to Winemaker Bob Bertheau's Response

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Bob Bertheau, Chateau Ste Michelle's Winemaker, Responds
(Note: Bob did not make the 2001 wines - his first vintage at Chateau Ste Michelle was the 2003 - coming soon)
Hello Rick,
Really glad you enjoyed the Chardonnays, Rick. Your comments are highly regarded and spot on.
The Canoe Ridge (CR) Chard is stylized to be more restrained, elegant and more "seamless" in its expressions (including oak). The Cold Creek (CC) Chard is stylized to be more 'in your face', intense, and powerful. That also follows with the oak expression as well. I hope you see that oak expression is less obvious and better integrated in all the Chards from my initial vintage here at Ste. Michelle.
Three major points about the oak expression in the wines:
1) I have brought the %New oak down from 95%+ where it used to be. The CR Chard is down to about 40% New Oak, while the CC is at about 60%. That is one obvious point while the CR is less obvious.........the %New is lower.
2) Longer drawn out fermentations with different yeasts allow for better integration of the oak components as the yeast stay alive longer with the yeasts that I use. This allows the yeast more live contact time to integrate, or 'fine' out the harsher, more obvious oak tannins.
3) Different coopers all have different sensory impacts on the wines. I choose the spicier, elegant French coopers (Boutes, Remond) for the Canoe Ridge to match the style that the vineyard gives me. I choose more roast/toast, rich style of barrels to match the intense, powerful fruit from Cold Creek (Dargaud et Jaegle, Seguin Moreau).
Hope this explains things for you. Here is a little letter I wrote to our own folks to help them with the style cues, but retailers can certainly use it as well!
Bob Bertheau, Head Winemaker, Chateau Ste. Michelle
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: Sellers, Buyers and Lovers of Chardonnay
From: Bob Bertheau
CBA!
Did you ever hear of the group espousing the sentiment "ABC?" You know……..Anything But Chardonnay……….folks that are tired of the heavy-handed, oak-splintery wines that you never want that second glass of(and sometimes, not even a first).
Well, with the grand launch of the Ste Michelle 2003 Chardonnays, we want to turn this group around, literally and figuratively. ABC…….turns around to CBA………Chardonnay, Back Again!
When I made my winemaking trek to Washington in summer of 2003 to start at the Chateau, I came on board with some ideas about how to change up the chardonnay programs. My ideas were a combination of what I felt the market was now wanting (or not wanting) along with my own personal touch with chardonnay styles and winemaking techniques from 18 years of making them.
Three key elements to be looking for in the 2003 Chardonnays:
Better separation of programs. If we are going to have 5 chardonnays, there needs to be obvious differences and talking points.
Better integrated oak. I have decreased (in some cases dramatically) the % of new oak AND using different yeast and stirring regimes to integrate the oak that is present. Oak is a spice, NOT the main ingredient.
Softer, more complex mouthfeels. In a corollary of the old saying - "It's the mouthfeel, stupid". Different yeasts, fining techniques and blending have all been changed with the common goal of softening up the palate impressions.
I think each wine also enjoys a "Mission Statement." These are key elements and styles that need to be kept in mind at every step of the winemaking process. Here are some mantras for my Chards:
Columbia Valley - "I'll have another glass, please." Soft, approachable and yet still complex for the price point.
Indian Wells - Rich, unctuous and tropical, this wine is from warmer climate Wahluke Slope Chard that gives it underlying texture and richness.
Canoe Ridge - From our windy, climate tempered vineyard overlooking the Columbia River, this wine shows higher tones of citrus and apple with elegance, breed and exceptional refinement.
Cold Creek - Tradition, power and structure are the key words to remember for the age-worthy wines from our oldest vineyard. Big, but not seeming overbearing, that is the challenge with these low yield, concentrated chardonnays.
Ethos - "Old World" complexity and style with our "New World" fruit. Nutty, complex and at the same time amazingly refined in the palate, this is my own personal statement about how world class I feel we can be in Washington with our Chardonnay.
I hope you all can see the direction we are heading with these wines and can become as excited selling them as I am in making them. Taste the wines as you read my emphasizing points. Take these points, ideas and style cues and personalize them to yourself as much as I have here at the Chateau.
Cheers!
Bob    Visit madisonwineshop.com | Questions or comments? Email info@madisonwineshop.com

2005 Begins With a Big Italian Bang

Chardonnay lovers - listen up! I have a Chardonnay from, of all places, Piedmont, Italy, and from a producer of Italy’s “Royal Reds” - Barolo and Barbaresco. One would think that a Chardonnay from a Barolo producer would rival any blockbuster fruit-and-oak Californian Chardonnay. In fact, plain “oak-blockbuster” precisely describes the $65 Gaya 1988 Gaia & Rey Piedmontese “cult” Chardonnay, which I ended up pouring down the drain, as undrinkable, in 1993. So having learned the hard way, I approached, with a jaundiced eye, the Barale ‘03 Langhe, Bussia Chardonnay, offered to me by a salesman.

Langhe, is the name given to the hills, around the Piedmontese town of Alba, on which are the vineyards that produce Barolo and Barbaresco. Bussia is the name of one of the most prestigious of those hills. Expecting the worst, I decided not to ask the price until I had tasted. To my surprise and joy, I found lovely, pristine Chardonnay fruit, alive and bright in my mouth, unencumbered with oak and the heavy, “butteriness”, which comes largely from secondary malolactic fermentation. I fell instantly in love with the wine, imagining how beautifully it will go with almost any light food.
So what does it cost? A mere $14.99/13.49! Phenomenal value. Join the gold-rush.
Another white Piedmontese gem - a Gavi, discovered last October and now on our shelves - Cascina degli Ulvi ‘03, $16.99/15.29. Gavi is Italy’s fashionable white wine, and Gavi di Gavi is even more fashionable. Both come from the appellation by that name surrounding the town of Gavi. I have found much of it, both in Italy and here, to be uninspiring - this, the first I have carried in years, is not. It offers an unusual nutty note in the nose and in the palate, and it finishes cleanly and crisply. Great balance. The grape is Cortese, of which we have another non-Gavi example - Bersano ‘02 Piemonte Cortese, $9.99/8.99, with delicate almond flavor, a creamy texture and a crisp finish. Both wines go well with seafood.
More Italy - Corte Marzago ”Le Bugne” ‘01, Veronese IGT, $19.99/17.99. The IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica or “[Wine] Typical of the Geographic Region”, which in this case is Verona. This wine, made of Cabernet and Corvina grapes, does not meet the requirements for a DOC (“controlled appellation”) wine, hence the IGT designation. Here is a wine with unusual, stunning black fruit, beautifully balanced with tannin and acid and perhaps a smidgin of wood.
An aside - you will be seeing more Italian wines with the IGT designation. The story goes back about twenty-five years when the first so-called “Super Tuscan” wines appeared on the market. Until quite recently, in order to qualify as DOC Chianti, a wine, among other requirements, had to be made of three grape varietals - Sangiovese and Canaiola, both red, and Malvasia, a white. Chianti producers who experimented with all Sangiovese or Sangiovese and Cabernet, could not claim DOC status, so the wines were labeled “Table Wine from Tuscany” or something similar, but the popular nickname became Super Tuscan. Today they would be labeled IGT, but for some, the nickname will no doubt persist.
Since the early eighties the prices of Super Tuscans soared from around twenty dollars to, in many instances, well over a hundred dollars - prices rarely obtained for Chianti. The producers realized that they had shot themselves in their Chianti foot, so to speak. Consequently, a few years ago they changed the rules. Chianti now must be at least 85% Sangiovese but the remaining 15% can be any varietal including Sangiovese.
Malvasia is used widely in Italian white wines, but whatever will happen to poor little Canaiolo?
Until early in December, when I was offered Rignana’03 Rosado, a Tuscana IGT, I had never seen straight Canialo, nor did I know what it tasted like, although I understand that its use in Chianti is to soften the Sangiovese. My first reaction - who needs a Rosè in December? But, happily, I never pass-up an opportunity to taste wine. I found a gem! - pale bronze in color, light zesty fruit that reminds me of persimmon - or is it the tannin that reminds me of persimmon? Never mind. This wine, at room temperature or slightly chilled, will make any meal, winter or summer, memorable. Innovative, inspired wine-making for just $13.99/14.59 - it makes my spirit soar!.
Inspired by the Barale Chardonnay hailed above, I am working my way through sampling Barale reds - first up, the ‘01 Barbaresco. Sitting at my computer as we speak, I am reveling in a just-opened bottle. Unlike so many of its tribe of Piedmontese “royals”, Barolo and Barbaresco, fashioned from Nebbiola, this wine, at the tender age of but three years, is open and irresistible. A rich perfume and earthy bouquet - no wood. The bouquet is echoed in the mouth in perfect balance with the fairly ripe tannins - again I detect little trace of wood in a lovely lingering finish Planning to do more than just sip tomorrow night with a hearty beef stew. Yours for $39.99/35.99.
2000 Vintage Barolo is Hot - or is it Hype?
The Wine Spectator (I think of it as the Wine Speculator) has touted the entire 2000 vintage of Barolo with a score of 100. Ridiculous! But many disciples take that to mean “go out and buy any and every Barolo you can lay your hands on”. Well, watch out! I have tasted a number of 2000 Barolo’s finding many too tannic to evaluate on a quick taste immediately after opening, which is the case at most trade tastings. So I am in the process of buying bottles of selected producers wines and evaluating them over a period of days. I do not need to taste the entire vintage - I need only to find a handful, or even one that rings my bell without breaking the bank.
Stay tuned.
The Madison Wine Shop is Not Moving
Finally, for those of you who have not heard the news - the Madison Wine Shop is staying put. It would have been fun to design and layout a new Madison Wine Shop from scratch, but would it have outweighed the headaches of moving? I am happy we will not know

Rick Lewis
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